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Torque adapter being used to torque rear drivers side bottom rear stud.
The formula is as follows C = D(A Divided by (A+B))
A, length of torque wrench (centre of drive to centre of handle) (22" my torque wrench).
B, Length of adapter (centre of drive to centre of drive) (4" My torque adapter).
C, the setting of the torque wrench with adapter to accomplish desired torque.
D, desired torque.
The torque values with the adapter were as follows.
First pull 70ft lbs all other studs except adapter. 59.5ft lbs with adapter (used on both lower rear studs D & P sides)
Second pull 140ft lbs all other studs except adapter. 118.5 with adapter (both lower rear studs D & P sides)
Third pull 210ft lbs all other studs except adapter. 178.2ft lbs with adapter (both lower rear studs D & P sides)
EX: First pull with adapter, C= 70(22/22+4) , C= 70(22/26), C= 70X.85 C=59.5ft lbs
This was verified as correct each time the setting was used on a previously torqued stud which was torqued without the adapter and then the new value with adapter and the torque wrench clicked at the setting perfectly each time. Hope theis wasn't too confusing. You may also go to the following web site for a better understanding of the above
Torque Wrench extensions
The five upper smaller bolts were re-used as per instructions and torqued to 25ft lbs accordingly as per the directions supplied by ARP
Thanks for the info here, I have looked around and not found any info on pulling the cab. I am curious how that compared to this method. It seems like it could save a lot of four letter words. Any ideas?
Bigelkhunter:
it kind of depends on the resources you have. if you have a lift that will easily get the cab off of the truck than i would definitely do that. i have limited space where I'm at and I'm making it work. it sure would be nice to be able to pull everything off of the motor while standing right next to the motor. I'm lucky I'm only 140lbs and 5'6" so i can fit in the motor compartment and work while sitting on the radiator haha! i know the head removal can be done without pulling the cab and i will verify if the head assembly will be possible without moving the cab around in the next week or so. (when i get the parts in the mail)
thanks for the torque info chuck, It only took a couple times reading it over to make sense of it.
Great post so far. From personal experience stay way far away from black diamond or black onyx gaskets. I used them and they failed. I now have OEM. 3rd time is a charm. The ARP studs go in as easy as the factories came out. IMO now is the time to address your STC fitting its right there. These have a high failure rate. I would highly suggest not getting the heads resurfaced. I would check them for square. Ford does not recommend resurfacing of the heads due to their tolerance. At this point cleanliness is your friend. Do not use a wire wheel to clean the block. Ford recommends using metal stock straight edge to even clean from top to bottom in one swipe or several depending on the build up.
OK maybe this is an odd question, but how the heck do you get this line apart?
That little sucker was not fun to get apart. Many a rude word was yelled and mumbled but I got it apart by making a small plastic C shaped hose that slid over the the aluminum part and slid into the ring that was connecting everything. There is a spring that goes around the inside of the connector and it was to be pushed out to get it to disconnect. They do make a special tool for this but with a little ingenuity you can make it work
just crap head gaskets then huh? that sucks cuz they are already in the mail haha, oh well, i think thoroughbred diesel has a return policy. i kind of bought the headstuds and gaskets as a deal but i'll just return them both if they won't let me return just the headgaskets. ARP headstuds are easy to find haha thanks for the heads up. this site is pretty sweet, i would never have guessed that the black diamond head gaskets would have been junk.
Thanks 04badford
That's kind of what i was thinking josh, i would just tape the hard to reach headstuds just within the head so the head could still slide onto the block no problem. that way i don't have to jack up the cab at all. i rebuilt the heads on my mothers 2004 f150 5.4L v8 and it was tighter to work on than this has been.
If you have to send everything back,you might want to check out riffraff diesel,they have some of the best prices I have seen.
That little sucker was not fun to get apart. Many a rude word was yelled and mumbled but I got it apart by making a small plastic C shaped hose that slid over the the aluminum part and slid into the ring that was connecting everything. There is a spring that goes around the inside of the connector and it was to be pushed out to get it to disconnect. They do make a special tool for this but with a little ingenuity you can make it work
Thanks for the tip! I zip tied a cut piece of a plastic scrapper and it worked very well!
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