MY bad , good post Josh, needed to read alittle further.

 

then anything rubber gaskit wise still needs to be replaced, we know what brake cleaner does.

 

That's the only reason I remembered that tidbit from the PDF because it caught me off-guard as the standard has always been to use carb cleaner.

Josh

 

well, after talking to a few people about this and with all your input, i think i'm going to just go ahead and delete the egr and redo the headstuds. it seems like that is the best way to get a good platform to build on for these motors. i BARELY got my truck to fit in the work garage and since it is winter we won't be using it too much. better than doing it outside wearing every article of clothing i own. its supposed to get to -5 in the next few days so i'm very happy for the garage.

i priced out how much it would cost to get and engine oil cooler, arp headstuds and gaskets, and have the heads worked over. since i already have a custom diesel egr delete kit that won't be included in the price. after talking to the nearest machine shop and getting a quote from him, it all came out to be just below 2,000 bucks. but i figure that doing this will make me more flexible in the future for mpg upgrades.

i'll keep posting pictures of this as i go along and describing as much as i can so anybody who might be wanting to do this will know what it entails. if anybody has any helpful information to make this easier or opinions please let me know. any and all information will be helpful. if you see something that i might have done wrong please let me know so other people aren't misguided by this thread.

i'm a pretty serious DIY and i have all the tools i will need... i think haha!

thanks! hope your black friday was good, and your vaca pleasant 04badford

 

Thank you , and at least your truck fits in the Garage, keep us in the loop there's really great techs and Info here

 

Alright, so after much difficulty i finally managed to get one head off and i only have four bolts holding on the other side for now. i took as many pictures as i could (pretty much when i actually remembered that i was supposed to be taking pictures haha). i'll just kind of explain the pictures as i go and if anybody needs anything cleared up just let me know. picture explanations will be at the base of the picture.

Right here all i've done is basically taken out some of the basic stuff. i removed the batteries off of both sides and the alternator. i also removed the intercooler lines and the coolant reservoir. Then i removed the clips off of the wiring harness and jammed it inbetween the hood and the windshield wipers to make it easier to get the turbo out.



This may be a little better view of the last photo. right after this i removed the egr valve and the inter cooler line that 90's down into the intake.



Here you can see that i removed the turbo, egr and intercooler line with the 90. the directions i had said to remove both oil lines above and below turbo but it didn't quite work out that smooth. i got the top line off easy enough but the bottom line would not come out because it goes straight into the bottom of the turbo and then 90's and goes into the motor. making it really hard to go two directions to remove it. so i ended up just pulling straight up on the turbo after removing the pedestal bolts. the line took some screwdriver persuasion but came right out. then i thought it was easier to let the turbo rest on the pedestal so i could take out that oil line completely and set it aside. if you don't then it kind of gets in the way of the turbo coming out.



just another look at whats going on from the driver side.



this is the oil line i was talking about. it has too directions that it inserts at so removing it with both end points stationary is kind of impossible. the turbo being jockied around a bit made it way easier to remove this line.



after you remove the turbo, remove the turbo pedestal. it doesn't really have to come off right away but its just an extra 4 bolts and it pops right out of there.



Now this is were i had the most trouble. removing the heater and ac unit is a must if you are taking off the heads. it just gives you so much more room to work with and it isn't that hard after you've figured out how to do it. i went into this blind and kinda wish i knew more about it before i kinda messed up. but this is why i am writing up this post, so people won't make the same mistakes i did. i'll get to that mistake a little farther down.



This is the vacuum pump for your 4 wheel drive i think. it basically makes it so your hubs will lock and unlock without you having to get out and turn them yourself. two bolts and a wire clip and its out of the way. it needs to come out to get the heater and ac system out.



This is the air reservoir for your vacuum pump. it also needs to come out for the heater and ac unit to come out. a couple vacuum lines and three bolts up in the wheel well will get this doohickey out and don't be surprised when it lets out a little air after vacuum line removal. (remove this before the vacuum pump.)



This is a close up of the bolt holes that hold the whole ac/heater system on. i did not know how many there were when i started so i figured this would be useful information for someone else. especially that upper right bolt hole. took me awhile to find it behind everything in the dash. but if you are flexible enough you can get it with a long extension and wobble socket. be sure to have a few cold ones after you get done with this system to cool your nerves before working on any other part of the truck because you might get frustrated.



if you remove the lower cover from under the dash you can see the three bottom holes for the heater/ac unit.



this one is a little harder to explain but if you remove the cover on right behind the glove box (pinch sides of glove box to get it to swing down and out of your way) you'll get this radiator that your freon or ac coolant stuff runs through for your ac to work. the top three bolts for the heater and ac unit is up and over the top of this radiator. you might be able to get them without taking the cover off of this radiator contraption but i did just for a tiny bit more room to work.



hopefully you are reading this before you work on your truck and not during because before you do any of the ac stuff, actually probably before you get the truck in the garage you need your ac system emptied. this is where i made that mistake i was talking about above. When i was taking this apart i new that the system was charged and thinking i was cool or something i just pulled off the cap from the ac pump and let out all the ac gas. i might have been okay if i was in a bigger garage or outside but in this tiny garage i was kinda screwed and i didn't know it. it wasn't until i tripped and fell on my face before i realized i was incredibly disorientated. i ended up having to lay down for about three hours and focus on breathing because this crap is slightly toxic and i got a face full of it while i let it all out. me being only 22 and never having really worked on ac i didn't know this so i am making sure anybody who reads this will know to NOT let out the ac yourself! take it down to an ac shop and have them let it out because they will know how to dispose of it. also it probably is environmentally friendly to have them take care of it instead of just letting it out when you are outside. anyway, this hole unit will come out after you remove the 6 bolts holding it on to the firewall and also a small bracket on the front of it with 4 bolts. make sure to unplug all vacuum lines and electrical lines going to this thing before yanking it out of there.



after you remove the ac/heater unit it will give you a spectacular view of your passenger side head and make it extremely easy to get to all the bolts and even the coolant drain on the block if you remove the exhaust manifold. just don't plan on catching any of that coolant because it sprays EVERYWHERE after take out the stopper.


Here is a picture of the block without the intake manifold on it. the intake manifold was pretty simple to remove but to do it you have to remove the oil filter and fuel filter housing that attaches to the engine oil cooler doodad. you are going to have to remove the hose that attaches the egr cooler to the engine oil cooler as well.


an easy way of remembering where all your bolts go is to stick them in some cardboard like this. you might want to do this with your valve cover bolts as well unless you have spectacular memory like me xD



just a picture of the intake off and on the ground. its a good idea to take this and clean it out as best you can before putting it back on because of all the soot build up. i think i'm going to see if i can get it hot tanked at a machine shop before i put it back on.



this is one end of the egr cooler and it seems to be just fine but i do not know what the other end looks like. i'll take it off tomorrow and report what i see. i'm not sure if the leak i had came from this deal or not yet.



finally got one side off (the easy side) and a few side notes for everybody doing this. when you take this off you are going to have to remove the rockers and push rods. but make SURE you lay them out in the exact order that you took them out in. unless you plan on buying a whole new set. these wear differently on each cylinder so they have to be put together the same way they came off. you are going to have to take off the piece that supplies oil to the injectors before you can take off the rockers. also the head bolts have to come off to get the rockers off. but only take off the top half so the head doesn't move around. there are small bolts to the center of the motor that also hold on the head. so make sure you take them off as well as the head bolts before you start trying to pry it up and off.



when i remove important pieces from the motor i like to lay out some paper towels and clearly mark the front of the motor and back as they came out. that way it makes it easy to clean all the pieces and then reassemble without confusion.



bottom of the head after removal. inbetween the cylinders looks pretty black and overheated but i think it will be okay after a visit to the machine shop. note: don't throw the head onto the table with the valves down because you will smash the injectors and they are pretty expensive so you don't want to mess the up too bad or you won't be able to reuse them. make sure the shop you take the heads to can pressure test your injectors to make sure they are all working correctly.





gaskets were looking pretty warn and heated. hopefully the new ones will hold up better



just a look at the cylinder walls and the honing marks are still visible after 300,000 miles! i'm starting to think that maybe this motor got rebuilt at one time but i'm not sure. there is some carbon buildup at the rim of the cylinder but hardly any wear in the cylinder walls it seems. i'm pretty happy with what i see here and i'm glad i didn't pull off the heads to see a messed up low end. everything is looking pretty darn good to me!


Hopefully this helps anybody who is trying to rebuild their 6.0 from the block up. so far i have not had to remove any cab bolts or move the cab at all. but i have yet to finish the driver side which is the hard side to work with. i will keep everybody posted on how that goes and then i'll be waiting for parts to get here to put it all back together. i'll probably do something similiar as to what i just did to help out. if anybody sees anything i might have missed or could have done better please just point it out. constructive criticism is incredibly helpful when it comes to something like this. plus i want the most accurate information for anybody else who is planning on doing this so they don't do something wrong on because of my post.

thanks!

 

Good job, but you also right now have the wrong type oil filter cap and maybe the wrong type filter. The right type filter with the wrong cap can be just as problematic.

You'll find all the necessary info to explain why on this forum with the search function. Very important.

 

Nice find Calm, could of been the Issue the whole time, Well we tried to save and help , some times the mouse gets taken from the hawk

 

thank you for pointing that out! i'll be sure to get that fixed when i put it back together here in a few weeks. i had no idea that the wrong oil filter cap/oil filter would actually fit and kinda work.

just a little news update. i got the driver side head off almost as easily as the passenger side head. the very rear bolt was the only problem child. i did not see the need to remove the cab for head removal. what i ended up doing was just taping the head bolt so it would stick out of the head a little bit and therefor come out of the block just enough to slide everything out after you get it off of the dowels. here is a picture and i guess i should have had the flash on because it is really hard to see.





I'm guessing that the head studs will be a lot harder to assemble with the cab on but i will try to figure something out and if i get it on without removing the cab I'll let everybody know!

 

Thanks for all the pictures, don't forget you also have to torx to spec and the hard ones are in the back, are you putting in the ARP studs?

 

yeah i have a ft-lb torque wrench to do the job. do you think i would need an in-lb torque wrench for the smaller stuff? i'm kinda nervous about not using the in-lb on the aluminum stuff because i have a bad habit of getting stuff to tight and stripping it out. i just ordered the arp headstuds last night with the Mahle black diamond head gaskets. i also ordered an engine oil cooler and EGT probe that will hook up to my sct tuner. a friend of mine told me i should also get a high pressure oil pump while i'm in there but those are kind of spendy. do you know if they are worth the 600 bucks?

 

You can reassemble similar to how you took it off by installing the head with the head stud as a unit and then tighten it down when everything is aligned.

Josh

 

Bud don't go with Black diamond gaskits unless you want to do this in acouple months again, Always OEM gaskits Please do your self a big favor.

 

just crap head gaskets then huh? that sucks cuz they are already in the mail haha, oh well, i think thoroughbred diesel has a return policy. i kind of bought the headstuds and gaskets as a deal but i'll just return them both if they won't let me return just the headgaskets. ARP headstuds are easy to find haha thanks for the heads up. this site is pretty sweet, i would never have guessed that the black diamond head gaskets would have been junk.

Thanks 04badford



That's kind of what i was thinking josh, i would just tape the hard to reach headstuds just within the head so the head could still slide onto the block no problem. that way i don't have to jack up the cab at all. i rebuilt the heads on my mothers 2004 f150 5.4L v8 and it was tighter to work on than this has been.

 

You can get one of these for reassembly.

http://image.snapon.com/international/pdf/srd35_npa.pdf

Or the generic version.


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