Hi I am looking for some opinions from seasoned 6.0 owners. Considering a 2005 6.0 diesel excursion purchase. I currently have a 2003 7.3 truck and i am having trouble finding a good ex with the 7.3. So i have been reading up on the 6.0 as much as i can. Not too sure when i will be up to speed on the 6.0 if ever. The excursion will serve as an extra vehicle for the wife and i. Will be driven 3-4 days a week. Towing boat, work trailer, hauling kids. Quick questions are how do i know if the egr delete has been done? If so many leave the egr in place but only bypass it. Will the exhaust smell different? Last one i looked at the owner couldnt produce any receipts and claimed the cel was on becasue of egr delete. And if i find one with low miles and fluids are changed with regular maintenance can the egr remain functional? Can i keep the vehicle stock and monitor temps and boost to avoid some of these repairs? Ive read alot of posts and most are really helpful.

 

Sure, they can be reliable with an operational EGR. A stealth delete is impossible to spot visually but a good Tech with IDS can tell you quickly. A monitor will work fine with or without an operational EGR. A stealth delete will turn on the Check Engine Light on most trucks. It depends on the software version (flash) in the truck.

Here is a post I have made in response folks shopping for a 6.0. There is more to know but these are the basics may be of some help:

First thing to know is the factory gauges are really idiot lights (engine temp, trans temp, and oil pressure) so don't rely on them. A ScanGauge ($160 @ AutoZone) or other device that plugs into the OBD port is your best bet to assess the condition of the truck. The first order of business would be to look at the oil temp vs the coolant temp. If there is more than 15deg difference the oil cooler may be plugging up. This is the beginning of a cascade of failures that can cost several thousand dollars to repair. When the oil cooler plugs, coolant flow to the EGR cooler is restricted enough to eventually cause it to fail (and/or the oil cooler can fail, allowing oil to enter the cooling system). Coolant from the EGR cooler enters the intake manifold and the combustion chamber causing extreme pressure that can stretch the head bolts and allow the head gaskets to leak. Without accurate info (gauges) all this (or just part of it) can happen with little to no warning.
Many people have used aftermarket parts to remedy some of these problems and you may find a used truck with head studs instead of the factory bolts, EGR cooler deletes or EGR coolers replaced with stronger units.
I'm backing up a little here but the beginning of these problem is thought to be a coolant issue. Good maintenance is the key to getting long service out of a 6.0 and ignoring the coolant can kill it. There is some debate about wether the coolant type is the problem or casting sand left in the coolant passages during manufacture is the problem. There is much reading you can do here on FTE on that issue. Look for white residue around the coolant overflow tank on any truck you are thinking of buying. That would indicate the cooling system may have been over pressurized by an engine problem or the cap has failed.
The turbo on these trucks is a variable vane design with no pressure relief valve. They have been a little prone to sticking if the truck sits a lot, spends a lot of time idling, or is driven easy all the time. It seems to help to "blow it out" every once in a while.
Fuel injector "stiction" can be an issue on a higher mileage or poorly maintained truck. Arrange to crank the truck cold and listen for very rough idle compared to a hot start, or the other side of that coin, a slow start or even no start that could indicate a leak on the high pressure oil system. There are other causes for cold start issues but be aware the fuel injectors are expensive (a whole set dealer installed can be $2k) and negotiate the price accordingly.
The Fuel Injection Control Module (FICM) is a common and potentially expensive repair. The condition of the FICM can be checked out with the ScanGauge as well or with a little bit more trouble you can check it with a multimeter. Details and repair options are in the Tech folder.
So, oil cooler, EGR cooler, head bolt, head gaskets, turbo, fuel injectors, and FICM, just to name the biggies.
The good news is - under all these issues is a very good engine in a great truck. Many, if not all, of the thing I listed can be avoided by keeping up with services, so you're looking for a truck that has been kept-up very well. Lots of folks have lots of miles on their 6.0 without any of these issues. Some important things to know are; Use Ford/Motorcraft/Racor oil filters, many aftermarket filters don't fit correctly and allow oil to bypass the element. As a matter of fact, it's better to stick with Ford filters for the whole truck, an aftermarket oil filter would be a red flag on one I was looking to buy.
An Oasis report is a list of dealer repairs. It's good to know what repairs have been done and how many. You'll need the VIN of the truck to get it from a dealership.
I hope this info helps. It's pretty general. Hang around here on FTE and get into the Tech Folders and learn the "search" function for more complete info. There are many knowledgeable folks here and even a few Ford Techs that can help with specific questions you may have.
Good luck!