Block drain plug advice needed...
Got enough ELC.
Ready to do the deed and the block plugs won't budge. I've tried 8mm and 5/16 in every Allen headed tool I have with no luck....Zero, zilch, nada.
Plan B is a left-hand drill bit in the proper size (which is ?).
Suggestions? Advice? C4?
TIA.
PB Blaster sounds like a good idea....I'll try it. Of course, it didn't work too good on the bed bolts....
and give it a light rap with the impact wrench. and I do mean
LIGHT. Don't sit and hammer at it.
If you know someone that has one of these
Buy Aircraft Tool Supply AT540A 10" Screw Knocker & Nut Buster at SkyGeek.com
or
Short Screw Extractor/Screw Knocker/Old Man 4"
Last
ATS SCREW & BOLT REMOVER (10) from Aircraft Tool Supply
Also called a "Screw Knocker", "Woodpecker", or "Nut Buster", this tool is used to remove screws, bolts, nuts, etc. that are corroded or cannot be loosened by conventional methods. Fits all rivet guns with a .401 Parker Taper shank. Accepts 3/8" square drive sockets and tooling. Drop forged from tool grade steel and hardened to 45 Rockwell. See p/n AT54K for optional 1/4" adapter and drive bits. 10" long. 2 lbs (1Kg) shipping weight.
This tool is more along the line of the hand operated impact driver. It used a .401
pneumatic rivet gun to provide the hammer force.
There is some info here. >> Can someone explain how a "bolt knocker" works??? [Archive] - The Garage Journal Board
Sean
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and give it a light rap with the impact wrench. and I do mean
LIGHT. Don't sit and hammer at it.
If you know someone that has one of these
Buy Aircraft Tool Supply AT540A 10" Screw Knocker & Nut Buster at SkyGeek.com
or
Short Screw Extractor/Screw Knocker/Old Man 4"
Last
ATS SCREW & BOLT REMOVER (10) from Aircraft Tool Supply
Also called a "Screw Knocker", "Woodpecker", or "Nut Buster", this tool is used to remove screws, bolts, nuts, etc. that are corroded or cannot be loosened by conventional methods. Fits all rivet guns with a .401 Parker Taper shank. Accepts 3/8" square drive sockets and tooling. Drop forged from tool grade steel and hardened to 45 Rockwell. See p/n AT54K for optional 1/4" adapter and drive bits. 10" long. 2 lbs (1Kg) shipping weight.
This tool is more along the line of the hand operated impact driver. It used a .401
pneumatic rivet gun to provide the hammer force.
There is some info here. >> Can someone explain how a "bolt knocker" works??? [Archive] - The Garage Journal Board
Sean

WAY to big for my little rivet gun - which pulls rivets, not pounds them.
Thanks, Sean!
Benny's idea is more in line with my tools and abilities....
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Hours and hours of time and sweat and cursing spent messing with it because I was afraid to put an impact to it. Finally I had enough and the impact had it done on one burp ... maybe 1/2 of 1 second. A few hours of my life I won't get back but I did gain some experience and learned a life-lesson
You will need some space to use a hammer.
The Screw Knocker can be used with an air
chisel if the shank size is right .401 Most are.
Just dial back the air.
The way that an air chisel differs from a rivet gun
is the precision of the controls that i about all.
The other way to make a quickie one would take a
cheap ratchet handle and as your putting the twisting
force on the bit rap on it with a hammer.
Sean
The little suckers could not withstand the judicious application of an air chisel - absolutely nothing else worked.
Tomorrow I'll try to put the starter back on....that top bolt is hard to get to, for some reason. I had to remove the RF wheel, plus the inner fender splash shield to even be able to see what I was doing.
I used the Fumoto valves with a nipple that sticks straight out -108-N, I believe.
It sure looks like it will hit the starter - does it???
Definitely going to add some 3/8 hose and a clamp before the starter goes back on. If the starter ever quits someone else will have to fix it.
Miller time.










