Replacing the injetor pump
First thing is take the "Spider" loose at the injectors, this is what I call the hard metal lines that supply fuel to the injectors.
Then I take off the high idle solenoid, this allow more wiggle room.
I drop the throttle cables off the pump, and also take the bracket loose from the intake (again more wiggle room)
Then I drop both the supply line from the filter head and the return line off the pump.
Now unhook the electrical from the Timing advance and fuel shut off solenoids on the top of the pump.
Ok now were getting down to the meat of the situation. Take the oil fill spout off (on a 6.9, if working on a 7.3 take the inspection cover off the gear housing, both are located in the same spot).
Then take loose the three bolts that hold the gear to the pump shaft (5/16th 12 point socket needed)
Ok were getting real close now.
If you are pulling the pump and going to reinstall the same pump do yourself a favor and mark the position of the pump to the housing, as this will save you from having to re-time the engine. Now if pulling the pump to install a replacement, don't worry about marking the position as each pump is different.
Take loose the three nuts that hold the pump fast to the housing, these take a 9/16th inch open end wrench. I like to use a "Hydralic wrench" for this task. It's a double open ended wrench that has a 90 degree head on one end.
Once you get all nuts off and the washers, wiggle the pump out of there. Take care not to bend the snot out of the "Spider". Then when you swap the "Spider" over to the replacement pump make sure that you get the lines installed on the pump correctly. I like to have them sitting side by side when doing this procedure, this way I can't screw it up, or I should say I lesson the chance of getting them staggered.
Reassembly is reverse.
No need to make sure the engine is at TDC, as you are correct in the dowel pin will only let you install it one way.
Once you install the replacement pump, you will need to timing the engine, or get it timed by a shop. Most guys choose to have a shop do it, as the cost is normally only half an hours labor. I on the other hand have a Diesel Pulse Adapter so I do it myself, but I have many times in the past set the timing by ear (before purchasing the adapter). What I did was install the pump get her all warmed up, take her for a drive and I keep stopping and advancing the pump (turning the top towards the passengers side) until I start to hear her hammer a little under higher RPMS, then back off just a smidge. This works pretty good, but I have always followed up by taking it in to be double checked. They have always come back saying I was right on with this method. But you need to keep in mind my ear is different than your ear, so I recommend getting it set by the shop. I can't say that enough. Most of the time when they check it and it's right on, they don't even charge, because it takes them less than 5 mins to hook up.
By the way, what kind of power gain did you get with the Banks turbo? How hard is it to install yourself...I've work on quad turbo flat 12's so I don't expect it to be that hard, but is it a challenge to allow a lot of time for?
But yeah the turbo makes a big difference. Read my website.
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/argve1/Banks.html
I am so happy that she put her foot down on that deal. Banks tech support told me 20 hours start to finish, I blew that out of the water, it took way longer, but I wanted to do the job right, so I took my time making sure everything mated up perfectly. Which paid off in the end.
that is close to what I did so since I didnot take the cover off the top gear I don't have to worry about retiming anything right
this truck has only ran twice in two years
well I got it started for 15 minutes and it died there is a lot of leaky fuel line I go tot fix (air) checked my glowplugs they are all good just don't want to start so I'm going to get the injectors checked
also I want to put a manual glow plug switch if mine is bad
I have the extra glow plug selenoid from the other truck how would I hook this up I got a idael but not sure.
check out this page for a diagram for wiring up a manual control for the glowplugs.
http://www.members.shaw.ca/k2pilot/G...%20diagram.jpg
okay I am confused
your saying that the pump (with the lines attached) had to be marked with the top cover??? is this how you turn the pump up and down???( losen the 3 nuts) or is it how you fine tune a desiel kinda like moving the distriburtor on a gasser
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If you rotate the top of the pump towards the passengers side of the truck, you are advancing the timing.
If you rotate the top of the pump towards the drivers side of the truck, you are retarding the timing.
So if you are going to pull the pump off the truck, mark the rotation or when you reinstall the pump you will have take the truck in to have the timing set.
Now if you want to "Turn Up the Pump" as it's called, which is basically increasing the fuel rate at which the pump delivers fuel, you need to open the pump up via the triangle cover on the passengers side of the pump. There will be an allen headed screw deep inside the pump, that you can turn clock-wise to increase the fuel delivery rate, or turn counter-clock-wise to decrease the rate. Just rotate the engine around slowly until the allen head becomes visable and turn it up, but don't turn it up more than 90 degrees, a small adjustment on this screw has a big effect on temps.
If you want to start messing with this, will caution you to have a pyro installed so that you can monitor the EGT (Exhaust Gas Temps) you can achieve thermo-nuclear-meltdown even with a non-turbo truck, probably faster with a non-turbo because your not moving as much air.
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