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Tips on water pump replacement?

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Old Nov 21, 2013 | 07:10 PM
  #1  
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Tips on water pump replacement?

Need to put a water pump on my '97 PSD. Last one lasted 55k and I had a shop install it because it was dead of winter and I had no garage to work in or time to do it, but I did have a little money. Now the money is tighter and I have a place I can do the work.
I have replaced 2 pumps in my life, but that was years ago, no fan clutches on either engine.
So- I am not looking for step-by-step instructions, just tips about what has to come off and what can be worked around. And potential hang-ups others have encountered, so I can be prepared.
I am also working under the assumption that all fasteners are metric. True or False?

Thanks!
 
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Old Nov 21, 2013 | 07:33 PM
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Biggest problem you will have is removing the fan clutch assembly. It takes some special skinny diameter large wrenches to do it properly. I gave up on local auto stores and just rented a complete set for 24 hours. The water pump portion is easy except the gasket is a o-ring so take care in securing it to the base of the pump when installing, I used some tacky grease to hold it in place. Make sure when re-installing the fan assembly you tighten it down very good. A few on here did not then when shutting down the truck the fan assembly spun backwards and went through the radiator.
 
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Old Nov 21, 2013 | 08:45 PM
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Option - International makes a water pump that was used on these engines when commissioned for their equipment/vehicles; this water pump has a built-in coolant filter base. Requires a different lower radiator hose and some minor mod. Search here and on the other PSD forums for "International water pump" for all the skinny.
 
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Old Nov 22, 2013 | 09:26 AM
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as stated, the fan clutch is probably the most difficult part. you can rent the clutch tool from some part stores like O'reilly's etc. I have done the pump twice and my suggestion is drain the radiator fully and pull it. It is basically three nuts on each side at the top, trans lines if auto. Well worth having it out while you takeoff and putting on the fan/clutch. also prevents you from damaging your radiator and making a $150 job much more expensive.
 
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Old Nov 22, 2013 | 09:58 AM
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Thanks for the tips, gentlemen! That was exactly the kind of thing I was looking for!
 
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Old Nov 22, 2013 | 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by BIGRED 7.3L
as stated, the fan clutch is probably the most difficult part. you can rent the clutch tool from some part stores like O'reilly's etc. I have done the pump twice and my suggestion is drain the radiator fully and pull it. It is basically three nuts on each side at the top, trans lines if auto. Well worth having it out while you takeoff and putting on the fan/clutch. also prevents you from damaging your radiator and making a $150 job much more expensive.
Any reason a high-quality strap wrench would not work to hold the fan clutch whilst removing the retaining nut?
 
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Old Nov 22, 2013 | 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by ckal704
Any reason a high-quality strap wrench would not work to hold the fan clutch whilst removing the retaining nut?
Can certainly try it. I left belt on and had to "shock it" loose with the wrench and a hammer. Of course I got that info off this site.
 
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Old Nov 22, 2013 | 04:50 PM
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The fan clutch tools are nice but many do it without. There are various ways I have heard told. I got the tools from the local Advanced and it was so worn out that the wrench actually wouldn't work. Fortunately a friend had a nice matco set and it fit perfectly. It is like a 51mm slot, iirc. I tried a couple of other ways to get it off when the rented one clearly wasn't going to work, but no luck. So, I would recommend getting one but take a good look at it while at the store.

The IH water pump is awesome, I did mine last summer. But it is a bit of effort to get all the pieces together and about a $225 deal with all the parts. BUT, you get a really clean look and the built in filter.

Make sure you tap down the holes around the thermo housing, they can get "dented" in and then not be as tight. A ball peen hammer will help level them out if used carefully. Also, make sure you think through your antifreeze choice - green, pink, other. There are some good threads about it here and the SCAs need to be right.
 
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Old Nov 22, 2013 | 04:50 PM
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I just use a chisel and hammer on the clutch bolt. If you leave the radiator in, put a piece of cardboard in there to protect the radiator. The reason your pump failed is sand from the casting of the motor, most likely. That's why a lot of us have gone to a filter so the pump will last longer. I put the international pump on with filter.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2013 | 04:56 PM
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Job done. Only took about 4 hours. Removed radiator. Did not have a fan clutch wrench, so I made one; TGFPC (thank God for plasma cutters). Flushed radiator several times while it was out. Bunch of debris in there. Old pump shaft/bearing so worn pump fins were scraping pump housing. Will flush entire system after hunting season.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2013 | 06:55 PM
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What pump did you use?
 
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Old Nov 26, 2013 | 06:31 AM
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Originally Posted by oldbird1965
What pump did you use?
GMB. Chinese. $110.00 Only one locally available-had to get the job done Sat AM; work and schedule did not allow me to shop around. We'll see how long it lasts. Was told by parts man it is a new pump, not re-man. We'll see.
 
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Old Nov 26, 2013 | 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by oldbird1965
If you leave the radiator in, put a piece of cardboard in there to protect the radiator.

+1 on this!
 
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