T18 woes
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T18 woes
So my 85 f250 straight six 4x4 lived a rough life before me.
She had 36" tires and no lift and a super clean engine bay, he spent some time on cleaning it.
Anyway sometimes it's REALLYYY hard to shift into second,and the other gears, it isn't synchroed since it's the t18 so it'll grind either way going into first unless I go to second first, but it doesn't always do this, is it warning of something? Once its warmed up, i geuss i could say. others once the temp outside is warmed its good.
Let me know what you think
She had 36" tires and no lift and a super clean engine bay, he spent some time on cleaning it.
Anyway sometimes it's REALLYYY hard to shift into second,and the other gears, it isn't synchroed since it's the t18 so it'll grind either way going into first unless I go to second first, but it doesn't always do this, is it warning of something? Once its warmed up, i geuss i could say. others once the temp outside is warmed its good.
Let me know what you think
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From: Virginia
All trannies will be a little tough to shift when cold. Also, you can't be shifting too and from 1st gear on the fly without some trouble. You already know you can't shift into 1st on the fly because it's not synchronized, but you also will have a tough time shifting from 1st to 2nd because the gear ratio is so different between these two. You really should be starting out in 2nd gear. If you can't, you should think about running smaller tires or changing the gear ratio in the rearends.
If you want to help the situation out, a modern synthetic gear oil will help it shift better cold, the synthetic oil doesn't get really thick like the old school gear oils that this tranny uses. It won't be cheap, but it may be a help in your situation.
If you want to help the situation out, a modern synthetic gear oil will help it shift better cold, the synthetic oil doesn't get really thick like the old school gear oils that this tranny uses. It won't be cheap, but it may be a help in your situation.
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The only reason I ever touch first is to go into reverse, other then that it's second third or fourth, but some times it'll do it awhile, like after the engine has been driven for a few hours, actually I probably just need new gear oil huh?
What weight would you recommend? I'm in the Carolina's, it does t snow but it get to teens quite often and 100+ so I'd rather deal with cold issues then hot issues.
What weight would you recommend? I'm in the Carolina's, it does t snow but it get to teens quite often and 100+ so I'd rather deal with cold issues then hot issues.
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Sweet thanks, imma ask you this, and then post it, my distributer took a crap on me today, my tfi and ignition coil are still new and I doubt I have a bunch of bad wires and a rotor since they are six ish months old
My distributor in the truck does not have a vacuum advance, but the one that autozone says my truck needs does? Should I just install it and figure out where the line needs to go? I don't have a duraspark swap, still have my feedback carb and everything stock.
My distributor in the truck does not have a vacuum advance, but the one that autozone says my truck needs does? Should I just install it and figure out where the line needs to go? I don't have a duraspark swap, still have my feedback carb and everything stock.
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Are you planning to do the swap? If so, keep the dist and install it. But if I recall from another post, there may not be a proper place to plug the vacuum line in. But you can run without it till you get a older style carb.
I always tell people to look for the vacuum line, but it's just because we can tell what type of distributor the engine has. A vacuum line connection tells us the timing will be adjusted mechanically by the distributor and not the computer.
The proper place to put the vacuum line would be a port on the carb that only has vacuum when the engine is revved. You can try one that has vacuum all the time, but it may or may not work very well.
I always tell people to look for the vacuum line, but it's just because we can tell what type of distributor the engine has. A vacuum line connection tells us the timing will be adjusted mechanically by the distributor and not the computer.
The proper place to put the vacuum line would be a port on the carb that only has vacuum when the engine is revved. You can try one that has vacuum all the time, but it may or may not work very well.
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I plan to do the swap one day, and install the one with the vacuum line correct?
If it's not hooked up wouldn't my timing stay the same between rpms and I get a weak motor? I believe the replacement has a plug and a vacuum line, but I'm not sure.
If it's not hooked up wouldn't my timing stay the same between rpms and I get a weak motor? I believe the replacement has a plug and a vacuum line, but I'm not sure.
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From: Virginia
If you have a dist with a vacuum line connection, but do not hook it up, you will get proper advance at all rpms, but your timing advance will not be as great with light throttle cruising. This will affect your fuel mileage some till you get it hooked up. It will not affect power, since if you are mashing pretty good on the throttle your vacuum advance is not working anyway.
If you have a dist with no vacuum connection and the computer is not working, then you will have NO advance at any rpm or load, and the engine will be weak.
If you have a dist with no vacuum connection and the computer is not working, then you will have NO advance at any rpm or load, and the engine will be weak.
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