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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

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Old Nov 12, 2013 | 09:04 AM
  #31  
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Tired of seeing so many use it? Tired of the way it performs? Or what?

And, as Jim is saying, Rotella is a good and effective way to protect a flat tappet cam.
 
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Old Nov 12, 2013 | 09:09 AM
  #32  
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Rotella, Delvac, Delo, all CI oil zinc levels have been reduced in recent years too.
It 'poisons' the catalytic converters.

But we don't have such things, do we?

I'd use the Crane cams assembly lube, and either EOS or the Brad Penn 'green' oil for the 500mi. break in.

Once past that I think you are okay.
I really like the detergents in diesel oils as much as I do having some ZDDP in them.
 
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Old Nov 12, 2013 | 09:13 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
Tired of seeing so many use it? Tired of the way it performs? Or what?
It runs out of steam.
There are times I'd rather just floor it than shift.
(Like merging onto the highway with a load or trailer.)

I've taken my engine to 6k before installing this cam.
The 3500 doesn't keep pulling beyond 4500 like the stock cam did.

*Not to say it isn't stout if you short shift*
 
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Old Nov 12, 2013 | 11:32 AM
  #34  
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I think you'd mentioned it before, but I didn't understand. Thanks for explaining.

Wow! 6K is a lot of mass flying around at a high rate of speed. Would you go back to the stock cam or a different aftermarket unit? If so, what? The OP might want to consider it.
 
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Old Nov 12, 2013 | 12:03 PM
  #35  
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I think Ford probably did a lot of work on making their (non-retarded) cam operate well across a wide range of conditions and driving styles.
It may be best with my mostly stock drivetrain and street use.
The 385 cam didn't change, just the timing for emissions.

If I were to build an engine it would not be my first choice.
But my ideal engine would be a 'close to stock' sleeper.
An iron headed stroker with shorties and a vacuum secondary carb around 750cfm.

I would likely use a proven package from Reincarnation that included one of Scott's custom grinds from Delta Camshaft.
 
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Old Nov 12, 2013 | 02:52 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by ArdWrknTrk
If I were to build an engine it would not be my first choice.
But my ideal engine would be a 'close to stock' sleeper.
An iron headed stroker with shorties and a vacuum secondary carb around 750cfm.
Sounds alot like my current one but it's not quite that high of a CFM and it's stock stroke.
 
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Old Nov 12, 2013 | 04:17 PM
  #37  
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557CI v/s your 351.
Do the math.

I think I might still need 800cfm if given 80% VE
 
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Old Nov 12, 2013 | 05:08 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by ArdWrknTrk
557CI v/s your 351.
Do the math.

I think I might still need 800cfm if given 80% VE
Well yeah obviously more cubes need more air haha. But I was stating the similarities minus the engine differences in that regard.
 
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Old Nov 14, 2013 | 08:03 PM
  #39  
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Ok so I ordered my timing set for a 90 460. For those that have done a timing set how long has it taken you to do it? Just want to know how long I need to set aside for it thanks
 
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Old Nov 14, 2013 | 08:06 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by fly-tying.guy
Ok so I ordered my timing set for a 90 460. For those that have done a timing set how long has it taken you to do it? Just want to know how long I need to set aside for it thanks
usually a long afternoon depending on how much you do, how well you clean stuff and how fast you work.
 
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Old Nov 14, 2013 | 08:11 PM
  #41  
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If you have a harmonic puller and the coolant internals aren't too corroded -or you break waterpump bolts- figure 3-4 hours for the backyard mechanic.

Roloc discs and an angle die grinder are nice to prep all those surfaces.
Gasket scraping + wire brush is a chore...

Pull the radiator/shroud and just sit right down and get to work.
Be SURE to change that stinking little bypass hose.
 
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