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Well I've heard from different sources that the base of my dizzy(distributor) should be flush with my block, and it doesn't look like that on mine, it's probably the reason it misfires when I tighten the clamp. Is it normal that mine isn't flush with the block? It's a '72 F100 4x4 390 ... And it has power steering... Which is odd for a '72
Dizzy's are flush with the block 100% of the time. That's to keep them tight so timing does not change. As stated by myself and others on your other thread this weekend you need to pull that Dizzy and inspect to see what your PO did or didn't do. MARK the Dizzy and rotor position BEFORE removal so you can re-install with the ignition timing then being the same.
Ok thanks everyone, I really appreciate the help... I'm a bit retarded when it comes to distributors. Pulling it out today
Don't forget to mark the housing in relation to wher the rotor is pointing. This will get you close ignition timing when you re-install the Dizzy. You eill still need to check the timing when you are done with a timing light.
what's the p/n on under side? Clean it up look for some type of damage..orich
Crap.. Too late on the p/n. I looked for damage, it looked fine, no missing teeth or anything. So I figured it was fine, so I put it back in and holy ****, it was a pain. It wouldn't go all they way, so I put a little grease on the end, and tapped it lightly with a mallet and it went it. I think I'm going to upgrade with an electric dizzy.
Aw nono hitting on it. Some guys put a long breaker bar & socket and turn the crank back & forth until the oil rod lines up then it will drop in place seated. You could break the dizzy teeth or the cam teeth doing what you did.
That's Another fords screw up design. common problem to reinstall.
Me, I just bump the starter push down on the dizzy a little & it drops into place...orich
Aw nono hitting on it. Some guys put a long breaker bar & socket and turn the crank back & forth until the oil rod lines up then it will drop in place seated. You could break the dizzy teeth or the cam teeth doing what you did. That's Another fords screw up design. common problem to reinstall. Me, I just bump the starter push down on the dizzy a little & it drops into place...orich
I did very light taps, and it fell in just fine, just pulled it out again, I'm just going to re-time the dizzy, I already put the motor at top dead center, how do I align the rotor?
Ez way is put a ink mark on the dizzy base with the cap on, making a mark on the housing with a felt pen lined up while cap it on to find #1 where you point the rotor when the dizzy cap it off when reinstalling the dizzy.
The Points fire juice too plugs when points Open ok not when they close. Even if it's like one tooth off most of the time you can turn the dizzy enough to get it correctly timed
right..orich
Ez way is put a ink mark on the dizzy base with the cap on, making a mark on the housing with a felt pen lined up while cap it on to find #1 where you point the rotor when the dizzy cap it off when reinstalling the dizzy. The Points fire juice too plugs when points Open ok not when they close. Even if it's like one tooth off most of the time you can turn the dizzy enough to get it correctly timed right..orich
Okay.. Re installed the dizzy with no problems. Timed and all plugs and wires re installed. I will start in the morning and see how she sounds. Should there be any up an down play with the shaft of the dizzy?
Okay.. Re installed the dizzy with no problems. Timed and all plugs and wires re installed. I will start in the morning and see how she sounds. Should there be any up an down play with the shaft of the dizzy?
Yes. There is a little when Dizzy is out of the engine.
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