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Would this work ?

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Old Nov 2, 2013 | 08:12 PM
  #1  
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From: Frequently frozen MN
Would this work ?

Hi,

I've got a Kohler K91 from a lawn vac that I'm trying to bring back to life ( not do a 'restoration' -- I'm way too slow and clumsy for that ). I'm just hoping to get the lawn vac working again.

Anyway, it's really not in that bad a shape, but I have a somewhat knotty problem. Both of the exhaust manifold bolts are sheared, and my attempts to drill them out started to enlarge the holes to the side. These are badly rusted in. One still had a bolt in it when I started, and I soaked and heated it for many days -- only to have it snap with slight pressure.

I've measured things, and the exhaust opening is about 3/4". It looks like I might be able to get it threaded for some 1/2" iron pipe and rig up some kind of an exhaust. I no longer have the original manifold anyway. (This thing has been sitting for about 20 years).

My other choice would be to have someone (not me !) put in some kind of inserts. I'd still have to come up with some kind of a manifold piece, and it seems like a lot more hassle.

Any thoughts on which route to go -- or other options?

Thanks,

hj
 
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Old Nov 2, 2013 | 10:25 PM
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All the K series engines I've dealt with had threaded exhaust ports, I know my 301 has that and my Wisconsin has that as well.
Otherwise if you want to just wrap it up and send it out this way, I'll give it a good home....
 
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Old Nov 3, 2013 | 12:37 AM
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From: Frequently frozen MN
I thought that the bigger ones might be that way, but I've never really paid attention.

The K91 is just a little 5 hp, so maybe it was cost or something, but there are 2 ears with screw holes and no threads in the port.

Otherwise if you want to just wrap it up and send it out this way, I'll give it a good home...
.

sure -- it's in the mail

hj
 
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Old Nov 3, 2013 | 03:24 PM
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Hey, it was worth a try. My whole collection is going earlier and earlier lately, I just picked up a Lawn Boy Gardener for too cheap to pass up.
1/2" pipe should work, taps are available but it'll be a royal pain to tap the cast iron. That stuff comes out like powder. The drill size is 23/32, it would be best to build some sort of fixture to hold the engine at a comfortable angle so you can concentrate on getting the angle right. Make sure to stuff something in there to keep chips out and clean very thoroughly afterwards as well.
You can also ask over on MTF if someone has a better way of doing it.
 
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Old Nov 4, 2013 | 12:47 AM
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I posted on MTF as well -- they insist that it's threaded, but I don't think so.

I scraped at it today and it seems pretty smooth.

I did try a short piece of 1/2" and it fit pretty well -- the first couple of threads (tapered) fit in and the rest is pretty close.

We'll just have to see about that cast stuff -- not looking forward to it.

hj
 
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Old Nov 15, 2013 | 01:31 AM
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From: Frequently frozen MN
Well, it was threaded under all the crud.

I picked at it and didn't see anything, but then I bought a tap from HF ( set was $14, I had to try it. )

Just stuck it in and it started 'cutting' -- only it was way too easy. Seems to be threaded for about a half an inch.

I still think that it was originally mounted with the bolts on the tabs. One of my K series has the exhaust mounted that way.

Now hopefully, I can fit an elbow in there -- the shroud for the vacuum fan boltsup to the motor on that side.

Thought I'd complete the story,

hj
 
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Old Nov 18, 2013 | 06:20 PM
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When you thread the nipple in, make sure you put a lock nut on it. The vibration will cause it to loosen up. Electrical locknuts are pipe threads. Good luck, and keep us posted.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2013 | 07:49 PM
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It may have had the bolts originally, my K301 has the holes drilled and tapped, but an elbow threaded in for the exhaust. Different applications just did it differently I guess.
Briggs used what looks like an electric fitting lock nut on their exhausts.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2013 | 11:57 PM
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From: Frequently frozen MN
Looks like it was some kind of a bolt on originally -- I've got 1-1/4" to fit in an elbow. ( I finally set the fan shroud on it to check )

Won't work with a regular 1/2" pipe elbow -- way too big.

I'd appreciate ANY thoughts -- they won't be any goofier than mine.

Thanks,

hj
 
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Old Nov 19, 2013 | 04:20 AM
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If you are having a space problem you should ask for a short radius iron street elbow.
This is male on one side and the thread runs right up to the bell of the female side.

It will look something like this:
 
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Old Nov 20, 2013 | 12:30 AM
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From: Frequently frozen MN
Thanks Ardwrkn,

I found street elbows, but I didn't know that their might be some special short radius ones. I'll check that out.

hj
 
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Old Nov 20, 2013 | 01:23 AM
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Do you have a pic of the old muffler?
Maybe that would give us a better idea of what we have to work with.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2013 | 07:49 PM
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Yep, all I ever saw were threaded. Usually 1". Pick up a "pepper shaker" muffler - which also has pipe thread and spin it on - instant complete exhaust.
 
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Old Nov 21, 2013 | 07:53 PM
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From: Frequently frozen MN
No pics of the old stuff -- everything was 'stored' for quite a while.


But, here's the area in question

Unobstructed

1056_sm.jpg Photo by go2ford | Photobucket

With the fan shroud ( space is ~ 1-1/4")

1057_sm.jpg Photo by go2ford | Photobucket

And and ad for my supplier

Moonlite Auto Photo by go2ford | Photobucket


Really appreciate all of the thoughts,

hj
 
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