Does anyone know where I can get new throttle linkage retainer clips? I'm talking about the spring steel clips that go over the hole in the arm on the bellcrank or on the carb, then you slip the link rod through the hole and clip this retainer on the link rod to keep it from falling off.

One of mine broke yesterday and the throttle linkage fell apart (it was kind of interesting driving it with just the hand throttle I installed to use as an idle speed adjust).

 

"Help" section at most parts stores. Lot of times they'll come in an assorted pack. Or take your linkage rod with you to NAPA and get the exact one you're looking for.

 

Sounds like the V8, I'd just transplant the I6. You'd B 'all set' - ain't got one!

Sorry, supposed to be a joke.

Welcome to the forum! Haven't seen you over here... how long you had the bronk?

Is the throttle cable interfering with the oem cable? Sounds like tight quarters in there.. I wuz gunna suggest my methodology - some bailing wire but no space...
You're "driving by hand stead'a foot" is how we do it in a plane.

Any pic of the carb linkage? What did U use for the hand throttle? Some early models had a dash choke.

 

I've been around for a little while, but I mostly hang out on the '92-'97 forum because I'm doing more work on my "new" F-250 than my Bronco.

I got the Bronco in about '03. It's my 3rd project vehicle following a '29 Model A and a '75 CJ5 (check out the "my toys" thread in my sig for pics). The first two were frame-up rebuilds. I didn't go quite as far with the Bronco, but there weren't too many bolts unturned.

The hand throttle is from Rubicon Express I think. I attached the lever to the transfer case shifter. The cable pulls directly on the throttle bell crank on the carb. It's reasonably far away from the linkage. There would actually be room for baling wire. If I'd had some with me I'd have done that to limp home. But I want a cleaner long-term fix.

I do have an aftermarket manual choke on it. I bought it with the stock 2 bbl carb, but replaced the 196,000 mile engine, put a Holley ProJection on the new one and took the original to a junk yard. I had trouble with the ProJection and bought a manifold an 2bbl carb from another junkyard (not a net win there...). I didn't get a working choke with the "new" carb, so manual was the simplest option.

I'll try to get a pic or two this weekend.

And sure, fly-boys use their hand instead of their right foot. Same in boats. But neither needs to coordinate the throttle with slipping the clutch to start into traffic on a hill! That plus my hand throttle will only open the throttle about half-way (it's only supposed to be a high idle adjust), so going home on the freeway was out, and getting out into a small hole in traffic was interesting.

 

Here's a pic of the left side of the carb. You can see the hand throttle cable hooked to the throttle on the carb and going back to the quick-and-dirty fabbed bracket on the firewall. It's above the stock linkage. The clip that broke is the one at the rear of the link.

 

Kouwell!
Not as crowded as I thought.

Any aids in the big box "Help" section (prts on green/yellow/white backing cards)?
We got em @ the one I wrk in. Their an assortment of em on our card.

"...clips that go over the hole in the arm on the bellcrank or on the carb..."
I thought they were only for the carb end. Would the remaining one be best positioned to the end that's more critical and 'mickey mouse' the other end?

- -Chad
the Shade Tree mechanic

 

It had the clips at both ends.

I did pick up a card of "assorted" retainer clips at NAPA yesterday. There were about half a dozen clips. One was almost the right size, but it was "right handed" and I need "left handed". The NAPA clip points back toward the firewall when it's on the rear of the link rod (and would point toward the front if it was on the carb end). There's almost enough rod behind the pin on the back end so I got it put together. But I hope I can find the correct one at some point (or two, to replace the rusty one on the front as well).

 

Would a replacement of the entire 'rod' work? Take some needle nose & bend a complete circle on each end to grab circle like?
There's always the dealer... not sure what kinda place Roseville is - a carb shop, same junk yrd U mentioned?

 

Roseville is a suburb of St. Paul. There are over a million people living within about 25 miles of me, so I have access to almost everything except much space

I saw some replacement rod assemblies on a couple different web sites when I first started looking. It shouldn't be too hard to find if I need to go that route. I'll also probably hit NAPA, and maybe one or two other parts stores to see what else they might have.

But I'm in no hurry now. It's back together pretty well, and the Bronco is parked for the winter now anyway (I'll let my '97 F-250 eat the salt instead)

 

"...(I'll let my '97 F-250 eat the salt instead)..."
ooo, i like that idea. (glad it's not a 70s). Friend (actually cousin's hubby) lives there (a south west section of the city) & has 1920s Indian motor cycles & a 60s vee dub microbus that stay warm inside all winter. My bronk is like me - out there all winter makin money (whenever possible). U can C da plow frame in the avatar..

If U had some heat you could forge a rod into a circle on the needed end. Touch it up w/a rat tail file?

Good luck, thanks for the posts.

 

I wish I didn't have to let my F-250 rust either, but I've gotta drive something. I've had a couple of Super Doodies and I don't see myself ever owning another Ford truck newer than 1997. So I want this one to last a while. Eventually I hope to start a build project on a Super Cab short box, but this crew cab needs to hold me until that truck is ready (10 years?).

Meanwhile, now that I have a truck I'm willing to drive my Bronco is just for fun in the summer, including fourwheeling trips whenever I can (which hasn't been for the last 3 years now)

Driving a short wheelbase vehicle like a Bronco in the snow with a plow on the front must be a little exciting! I'd rather not do that with anything shorter than a std cab long box, and even then I'd want a bunch of sandbags in the back.

 

no, no sand bags.
I'm quite lucky. I do driveways up'n down my street (it's taken 10 yrs to get em all) & at each end is a commercial (2 mini-marts - sell gas and groceries, do them for all the gas I want stead'a cash). Many are dirt and some are 1/4 mi long. I charge per 'visit' & don't go out for under 3 inches but in 6 inch storms (etc) stop by 2X. I'm not so lucky in that it can sno @ 3 or 4 am - a sleepy, cold time to be up'n out. Pays for the vehicle & all it's costs each yr & I got a free rig for my own drive and skiddin logs to the mill/lumber out to the job sites. Couppla times a year to the Mon nite show'n shine & up a pedestrian trail to mountain top for a sun set'n a beer. Like to generate enuff for a locker & other goodies but the economy's been bad 5 yrs now...

 

That sounds like a pretty good deal. It avoids much higher speed driving carrying the plow to and from jobs. That's what I'd want to avoid.

 

"...avoids much higher speed..."
no plow'n trailer at 1/2 ton get up to 60 mph some times, not bad for a 43 yr ol rig...
8^0