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What causes bent pushrods?

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Old Oct 25, 2013 | 02:39 AM
  #31  
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From: Austin, TX
Originally Posted by truckeemtnfords
Building gasser motors at a speed shop the main cause of push rod failure I saw was from lifter issues or rocker studs pulling allowing the push rods to fall aside and get bent.

Travis, by definition in engines, Power Band is the range between peak torque and peak horsepower. I see you HP numbers (is 518 @ 2800 your max HP), so to determine your power band we would need to know your max torque rpm. These rpm numbers would establish your power band. Max torque RPM to Max HP RPM.
991tq at 2100 IIRC. Basically all my dyno sheets have max torque as soon as the turbo hits and then torque drops all the way to redline while horsepower comes on.

What I've called my "power band" is my truly usable power range for doing work. I'm not going to pull in low rpms where I have more torque.. I'm going to pull where I have horsepower. I didn't know that's the true definition of the power band though, good to know.
 
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Old Oct 25, 2013 | 06:01 AM
  #32  
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strokin'_tatsch - my head is jamming up on this 500 HP with 160/100s, 34 PSI with that turbo, going 4000 RPM, and your HPOP falling off.
  1. I have been told by a modding mechanic (who does not know what I put into the truck) that he felt my truck was putting down about 450 HP during a test drive - in my DD tune. I thought he was misjudging it by quite a ways because 400 HP is allegedly max for the fuel quantity of these injectors. I do confess proper air and gearing can make better use of the fuel, and I have not been on the rollers yet. Why do I not get on the dyno? Woodnthings got on the rollers last year with his stock injectors and decent mods - 400 HP. I don't trust the calibrations on the dynos from location to location. I look at the build way more than the roller numbers. Joey and Palmer slap some serious spin on the street. Our quaint 160/100s are impressive, smooth, and reliable... but not needle-benders. More RPMs can certainly raise the HP numbers, but that's for the sake of a higher number on a display or graph. We can't compare that 4000 RPM number with all the other trucks limiting to 3200 RPM.
  2. 34/35 PSI is about where my turbo flatlines, and I know it's capable of more. I have two very tall suspects in the lineup - my intake is not rated for this kind of air flow and I'm sucking in the filter minder with a fresh cartridge. I'm working on that now. The other suspect is far more controversial - the 4" exhaust. More power can "push through" the 4" pipe, but it has a problem with velocity - the velocity in the pipe is too high and flow suffers above a certain point.
  3. Your HPOP can handle those sticks, I'm almost certain of it. I have seen your issue countless times - I had it as well. I have one sure-fire cure, if the original issue is what I think it is. If you want, send me a PM regarding the HPOP numbers (AE data during a WOT run would be fantastic) and I can share some graphs and charts - minus the easel.
  4. 4000 RPM is becoming the norm on newer diesels, but I'd bet good money that would take the long life reputation away from the diesel engine. Diesel-powered boats of yore cruised at 1800 RPM, and they would get insane hours out of those engine. We're up to 3200, thanks to turbocharging. I think it was Caterpillar that changed their policies on warranty and maintenance recommendations. They no longer look at running hours - they look at fuel consumed or total revolutions (I can't remember which). Higher RPMs shorten the time between maintenance cycles either way. While I can't remember any specifics at all, the concept really caught my attention.
I don't know what happens in the real world (re pushrods), but I don't see a lot of pushrods bending in the virtual world of FTE. We don't do 4000 and many of us discuss the best oils and change interval. It doesn't sound like your friend is one of the FTE brothers, so he may not be privy to proper care and feeding of our beasts. For all we know, he was running hard and fast, and accidentally hit the OD button.
 
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Old Oct 25, 2013 | 11:13 AM
  #33  
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Tugly, as far as my setup goes, those numbers are pretty dang close as far as I'm concerned. You also need to remember that im only 460hp on fuel. Im spraying it with water/methanol to pick up the rest.. so dont get too hung up on that 500hp figure. I trap 102mph 1/4 mile speeds at the track, with a manual trans mind you, so IMO its definitely making close to the power on my dyno sheets. If didn't have the downtime of shifting gears and spinning out on the line, I'm confident I could get another 1-2 mph from it. We'll see in a couple months when my BTS goes in.

Edit.. also, on the street I can hang right beside a tuned 6.4.. I don't know how savvy you are there, but a deleted/tuned 6.4 regularly dynos 575-590hp.. he and I hang side by side from a roll, but my truck is quite a bit lighter than his '09 regular cab too. Those newer trucks a pretty heavy
 
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Old Oct 26, 2013 | 07:34 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by strokin'_tatsch
Tugly, as far as my setup goes, those numbers are pretty dang close as far as I'm concerned. You also need to remember that im only 460hp on fuel. Im spraying it with water/methanol to pick up the rest.. so dont get too hung up on that 500hp figure. I trap 102mph 1/4 mile speeds at the track, with a manual trans mind you, so IMO its definitely making close to the power on my dyno sheets. If didn't have the downtime of shifting gears and spinning out on the line, I'm confident I could get another 1-2 mph from it. We'll see in a couple months when my BTS goes in.

Edit.. also, on the street I can hang right beside a tuned 6.4.. I don't know how savvy you are there, but a deleted/tuned 6.4 regularly dynos 575-590hp.. he and I hang side by side from a roll, but my truck is quite a bit lighter than his '09 regular cab too. Those newer trucks a pretty heavy
While the dyno has as much weight with me as the overhead, real world performance is a different matter. I may need to review my power situation, because I've been riding the assumption of 400 HP for a long time and I've run into all kinds of surprises I didn't expect at 400 HP (like breaking loose at TCLU). I had to install ladder bars to get the rear end to settle down.

 
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Old Oct 26, 2013 | 08:55 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Tugly
4000 RPM is becoming the norm on newer diesels, but I'd bet good money that would take the long life reputation away from the diesel engine.
Diesel-powered boats of yore cruised at 1800 RPM, and they would get insane hours out of those engine. We're up to 3200, thanks to turbocharging. I think it was Caterpillar that changed their policies on warranty and maintenance recommendations. They no longer look at running hours - they look at fuel consumed or total revolutions (I can't remember which). Higher RPMs shorten the time between maintenance cycles either way. While I can't remember any specifics at all, the concept really caught my attention.
I don't know what happens in the real world (re pushrods), but I don't see a lot of pushrods bending in the virtual world of FTE. We don't do 4000 and many of us discuss the best oils and change interval. It doesn't sound like your friend is one of the FTE brothers, so he may not be privy to proper care and feeding of our beasts. For all we know, he was running hard and fast, and accidentally hit the OD button.
Rich I concur that higher revs will effect the B50 life of diesel engines. Now since I work on boats for a living that is where I have more real world experience. Now mind you I work on older boats not ones under warranty but I heard a friend of mine talking about that on the marine Cummings that they use info from the pcm/ data logger like total revolutions and rpms when addressing warranty issues. But in most cases on marine diesels the props limit the rpms to a working range. But a broke prop or drift pin can cause them to over rev. Now I have never worked on a marine Cat so I don't know. I have NEVER heard of bent push rods on marine diesels. But if happens alot with the marine big block gassers in go fast boats due to over reving or launching the boat out of the water and not getting out of the throttle before hitting the water. Then all kinds of things break!!
 
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Old Oct 26, 2013 | 11:03 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by BadDogKuzz
...since I work on boats for a living...
Booaaat.... {gurgle} I got into this whole diesel debacle because I was looking to upgrade to a much bigger boat than the one I have. Well... Stinky gobbled up my big-boat money for the last two years, but I can yank the trailer out from under my dink of a sailboat like a tablecloth from under a place-setting. Fat use that is.

I must admit, dieseling across the country has exposed me to a new land-based experience that I had no idea I would enjoy. I don't enjoy wrenching my weekends away for a year, in hot pursuit of a proper-running engine... but things have finally stabilized and now I'm Buck$Zooka blasting for a last push to wrap up some annoying details.

Once Stinky is done, I can aim that Buck$Zooka back at the water again. I'm considering a diesel lobster boat, now that I have a comfort zone with how a diesel works. A trawler is usually to big to tow.

Back to the topic, I think we can agree the higher RPMs with turbodiesels invites the type of damage not seen on diesels of the past. One way to combat this is to have a tuner put rev limiter on the tunes... but I'm pretty sure this is already done.
 
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Old Nov 19, 2025 | 11:19 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by BadDogKuzz
When I read this tread I did feel like I was a deer caught by a set of headlights! But after thinking about it for awhile I have a couple of ideas.

First of all on these 7.3's I don't you see many push rod issues with stock trucks or truck with stock tunes driven by old guys that don't run higher rpm's having this problem. I think the issue comes into play when you are running a modded engine/tunes with higher boost and higher rpm's. I would bet that this is more of an issue with younger guys who want to hot rod these engines.

Now speaking of young guys who want to hot rod or beat the crap out of everything they drive. Believe it or not I was once a young man who beat the living crap out of everything I drove and doing so I have bent, broke or blown up just about everything. And in my experience with bent push rods (Which has been quite a few !) All on gasser v8's in cars and boats. Sometimes it was due to lifter, rocker arms, bent valve, crappy weak stock push rods, too much valve spring pressure and almost always high rpms.

It has been about 3 yrs now that I have been trying to learn all I can about these 7.3/ T444E and what makes them tick. The one thing I have never liked on these engines is the stock rocker arms. I see guys addressing the issue of push rods and valve springs. But never do I see anyone going with upgraded valves with a 4 angle valve job (to deal with seat pressure) or going with roller rocker arms. I am a big fan of using roller rocker arms on anything I have build in the past and not just high preformance or anything I want to last forever.
Roller rocker arms help reduce stress/ pressure from the valvetrain and push rods.

But in this case I would say too many rpms and bent valves with worn guides is causing the issue.
Dont the new trucks come with roller rockers? Isnt dodge the one with all the issues with roller rockers?
 
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Old Nov 19, 2025 | 12:43 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by BenRod
Dont the new trucks come with roller rockers? Isnt dodge the one with all the issues with roller rockers?
Better off asking in the new truck area instead of asking a 12 year old post on an older engine?
 
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