This is my drivers side axle on my 2000 Ford F250 SD truck. I need help in identifying the correct part that I need to replace. I am wondering if this part would be considered a needle bearing? (axle support bearing) Sorry I am a girl and blonde at that! I assume that this part would also need a seal and have heard that you need a special tool to put the seal on with. Any help that I can get I would appreciate!

 

i wish the picture was bigger to look at

 

you will need a new dust seal maybe bearings need a better pic.
what are you doing to the truck to have it dissembled?

 

the best I can tell from the picture,your front axle shaft, which is two piece[ inner ] & outer,if you separate at the u-joint. you would find all the info with pictures & parts descriptions with a search here to guzzles, look for ball joint replacement thread there.

 

here's a link to a write up for a full ball joint replacement. you don't need the whole write up but I like this one because it has good pictures and descriptions. You will find info here about wheel bearings, needle bearings, seals, drive shafts, and tools.
Ford Super Duty Ball Joint Replacement Procedure | Superdutypsd.com

 

Here's the review for the Timken 515020 axle bearing assembly I did on Amazon about a year and a half ago, copied verbatim. I replaced both sides on my '01 F350. Good luck!

"I ordered two of these and when the packages arrived, I discovered one box had the studs and yellow o-ring included and the other one contained just the hub/bearing assembly. Based on previous reviews, I had ordered studs (F81Z-1107-AA), nuts (F81Z-1120-AA), and o-rings (F81Z-4A322-AA) from another Ford parts supplier in White Bear Lake, MN just in case the packages were incomplete. While I had everything ripped apart, I also replaced the seal (F81Z-1S175-HCA) between the U-joint and the axle tube, as well as the knuckle seal (F81Z-3254-CB) that fits on the stub shaft on the outside of the U-joint. I used the OTC 6695 (ordered from Amazon) seal installer to pound the knuckle seal onto the stub shaft using a 4lb sledge. I then reinstalled the axles into the differential. Afterwards, I used the seal installer to drive the knuckle seal into the knuckle to the proper depth. Once the axles and seals were installed, the wheel bearings installed onto my 2001 F350 248,000mi 7.3L without a hitch. I replaced both plastic thrust washers (F81Z-4228-BA) as well as the three washers (kit # F81Z-3B458-AA). I swapped out the old locking hub o-rings with new ones from a kit (4C3Z-1K106-AA) and my truck was good to go. My U-joints (F81Z-3249-AA), and ball joints (Moog 80026 and Moog K8607T) were fine, so I didn't replace them. My outer stub shaft (4C3Z-3B387-AA) was also in great shape, so I left that be as well. I had heard that if the inner needle bearing within the wheel bearing gives out, it can chew up the stub shaft, requiring a stub shaft replacement. For me, this project took about 8 hours...and saved me about $1000 by doing it myself. I didn't realize how bad the bearings were until I replaced them. The truck doesn't 'float' anymore and the steering is so much tighter and more precise. These assemblies are a great deal...unfortunately, you'll never really know what you'll get in the box...thus a 4 star rating."