Axle Seals
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Axle Seals
I have a 2000 f250 4x4. I am replacing both unit bearings this weekend and am curious if I should pull the axle and replace the seals as well? I have not torn down the front axle of this truck before so I have some questions. The dust seal on the outboard axle shaft is pressed on, correct? So I would have to take it to a machine shop. If I do not see anything obviously wrong with it, should I just slap some lube on it and move on. In other words, is it recommended to pull the axle when you replace the bearings and replace this? My concern is that if the bearing went, that it may be leaking. However, the bearings have 50,000 miles on them with 38s and I would think I would see some evidence of leakage when I get in there.
I am not leaking any diff fluid so my inner seal should be ok. My concern is if I pull the axle, is it recommendd I go ahead and replace that one as well? I would rather not get into actual diff unless absolutely necessary.
Thanks-Rick
I am not leaking any diff fluid so my inner seal should be ok. My concern is if I pull the axle, is it recommendd I go ahead and replace that one as well? I would rather not get into actual diff unless absolutely necessary.
Thanks-Rick
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 9,303
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From: Lyndonville, Vermont
Being a 2000 have you done your ball joints? If not I would do it now. I would replace all the seals except the one inside the diff. Just go easy when you put the axles back in. You can make a tool to install the seal yourself. Have you thought about getting rid of those bearings and going to the dyna trak kit for $1500.00 and never replace a bearing again. Esp with big tires.. Ask all you want!
Dick
Dick
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Thanks for the responses. I had the ball joints replaced with greasables about 15000 ago. Normally I do all of this work myself but I was in a time crunch. I am looking for my receipt b/c I believe they replaced the dust seal when they did that (I just remembered the mechanic saying something to me about that). The dynatrac kit is nice but I am not planning on keeping the truck long enough to justify the expense.
Regarding the tool to install the seal, can you not ease it on with a mallet? I do not have access to a machine shop to make a tool and generally have to take these kinds of things to a local one.
Also, the axle is only held in place through seal tension correct (after the c-clip is removed)? So to pull it, just take some force to slide the joint, seal, and all through the knuckle?
Regarding the tool to install the seal, can you not ease it on with a mallet? I do not have access to a machine shop to make a tool and generally have to take these kinds of things to a local one.
Also, the axle is only held in place through seal tension correct (after the c-clip is removed)? So to pull it, just take some force to slide the joint, seal, and all through the knuckle?
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 557
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From: Bristol, CT
The Part Number on those large axle seals that are pressed on are:
F81Z 3254-CB List: $36.50
The Tool that the Techs use to press the seal on is really simple, it is very much lie a round thick piece of steel that go flush with the seal and then the techs hit it with a hammer and press it on. I'd say the best way for you would be to take a flat piece of wood and press it on (hit it on with the hammer) with i had time to better explain this, hope that helped.
F81Z 3254-CB List: $36.50
The Tool that the Techs use to press the seal on is really simple, it is very much lie a round thick piece of steel that go flush with the seal and then the techs hit it with a hammer and press it on. I'd say the best way for you would be to take a flat piece of wood and press it on (hit it on with the hammer) with i had time to better explain this, hope that helped.
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2003
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From: The Great Plains
I ended up screwing one of mine up trying to get it on. I ended up chucking them up in a lathe and taking some emorey just a big to get them to fit. Most press on seals will at least stick on (tight) until you press it on. These are tight enough where they won't.
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I spoke to the mechanic and found the receipt for the ball joints. Both steering knuckle dust seals were replaced right at 12000 miles ago when they did the ball joints so they should be fine. I will give them a thorough inspection and replace one if i see that it needs it. Otherwise, I will just lube it and go on, no need to pull the axle.
Thanks for all of the replies.
Thanks for all of the replies.
