Originally Posted by williamwilliam

All I did when I installed the original pertronix 1 on my 2 mustangs (2 and 3 are crap in my opinion) was take out the points and condensor and install the pertronix unit and then run the positive and negative wires to the stock coil. You don't have to change your stock coil. Ive been running my 2 mustangs this way for over 8 years now and I have had zero problems. You don't have to worry about a resistor wire and all that nonsense.

Originally Posted by tpdaniels

All things are not created equal...... I'm using the Pertronix 1 and the Pertronix coil and from experience I did just what was said above, could never get it to run just right, I bypassed the resistor wire and that fixed all my problems. My problem was that the positive side of the coil always read 12 volts when I checked it with the motor off, so I assumed it had 12 volts at all times, but I finally decided to check it with the engine running, what a difference, it only had 6.1 volts. All I can figure is that the resistor wire lets 12 volts pass thru when static but starts working when the current is being used, I not sure if that's the way it work's, but I do know that on my truck I had to bypass the resistor wire and that fixed all my Pertronix problems.

Originally Posted by gfw1985

No current flow, no voltage drop. Points are the easiest way to explain. When points are open, you would read battery voltage. If points are closed, completing a path to ground, you would see the voltage drop.

Originally Posted by tpdaniels

All things are not created equal...... I'm using the Pertronix 1 and the Pertronix coil and from experience I did just what was said above, could never get it to run just right, I bypassed the resistor wire and that fixed all my problems. My problem was that the positive side of the coil always read 12 volts when I checked it with the motor off, so I assumed it had 12 volts at all times, but I finally decided to check it with the engine running, what a difference, it only had 6.1 volts. All I can figure is that the resistor wire lets 12 volts pass thru when static but starts working when the current is being used, I not sure if that's the way it work's, but I do know that on my truck I had to bypass the resistor wire and that fixed all my Pertronix problems.

Originally Posted by williamwilliam

You are correct about the resistor wire!!!!

However, The original Pertronix I will run off 6 or 12V. The Pertronix II and III units require a full 12V to function properly. That's why I said I would go with the original pertronix over pertronix II and III. I have a 1969 428 SCJ that I installed the original pertronix into over 8 years ago and it still runs like a scolded dog when I drop the pedal to the floor. Mine is installed the exact same way as in the video, and I am also using the original stock coil. I have no problems what so ever. On my 69 351 Windsor car, I installed it the exact same way except I also installed the flamethrower coil and it ran like crap....put the stock coil back on it and all was good. I threw that flamethrower coil in the trash. I opted to go with a CRT HEI dizzy on my 68 ranger and that was the best way to go over the pertronix. The only thing I like better about the pertronix is that it gives my 2 mustangs an original appearance....but the HEI dizzy throws out more spark as you also have to upgrade to a thicker 8mm plug wire, which wasn't a problem as the HEI I bought came with pre-cut 8mm wires. It fires on the first turn of the key every time.

Some coils are designed for 6V, some for 12V. The coil that comes with the Pertronix II and III kits requires a full 12V to function properly. The flamethrower coil itself requires 12V. The system will likely function "ok" off 6V, but you won't be getting full voltage to the plugs and therefore shouldn't open them up more than factory spec (.035"). Ideally you bypass the resistor, (which is the pink wire coming off the back of the ignition switch if I remember correctly) feed the coil and Pertronix 12V, open your plug gap up to .040" or so, and all works well.....but again, that's why I would just stick to the original Pertronix because it will use the exact same voltage that points use to run properly, but not burn out like points will.