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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

Install Pertronix =(

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Old Oct 14, 2013 | 06:21 PM
  #16  
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You have a 68 truck? If so your vendor sent you only the ignition module which is sold separately. To convert points to electronic you need a #91281 which is the basic one for a Ford V8 engine. Or a 91261 for a 6 cylinder.

You need this one if a V8

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pn...view/make/ford
 
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Old Oct 14, 2013 | 06:31 PM
  #17  
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Heck send it to the vendor and buy a HEI dizzy their as low as $93 bucks now on ebay heres one ebay, best to get the wires with one 251206084326.. And they work better than the ignitors units. Plus you can buy the GM replacement parts at just about any auto parts store...orich
 
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Old Oct 15, 2013 | 03:19 PM
  #18  
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Still not firing

The vendor emailed me yesterday after realizing he was wrong and ordered the sleeve. Got it installed and its still not firing. Nothing is going to the coil. I have checked power to coil and its getting full 12v. Checked + post to chassis ground and have 12v. Checked - post to chassis grounds and its showing 12v. This is a new coil. Not anything like MSD or ACCEL. Not sure if the - post having voltage is a problem. Seems odd to me but I'm not really an electrical GURU. Like I stated, I have no fire going to the coil. Checked multiple ways. Plug tester, laying it against something metal, and holding the wire while turning the engine over. Didnt get shocked like I was actually hoping for . Not everyday do you wanna get shocked haha.
 
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Old Oct 15, 2013 | 03:33 PM
  #19  
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Fire comes from the coil. Place a test light from ground to - side of coil and try to start. Light should flash, if not you still have a problem in the distributor. Make sure the magnetic sleeve is fully seated. They used to come with a plastic gauge to measure the airgap between sleeve and module. While not critical, I'm guessing about .035-.040.
 
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Old Oct 15, 2013 | 03:41 PM
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I seem to not have fire from the coil. A simple grip of the wire pulled off while starting showed that. I have full voltage on both posts. The ignitor II has 2 holes in the mounting plate that do not allow for adjustment on the gap. The sleeve is mounted snug to the shaft.
 
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Old Oct 15, 2013 | 06:38 PM
  #21  
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I went as far as making the HOLES into SLOTS so I could adjust the air gap and still nothing. I swapped in the old points and condenser and it fired right up...
Idk if this module was supposed to come on an arm so it can be adjusted or not. Mine did not. It came as just the module with the holes that ALMOST lined up with the stock position for the points. I had to drill the holes a little larger so I could secure it to the points plate. Idk if its just because I still dont have everything I need or not. I guess I'm going to try to return it all and be done with it. Or try again later by going with summit or someone. Maybe even Pertronix directly.
 
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Old Oct 15, 2013 | 08:25 PM
  #22  
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Check the coil the primary resistance with a ohm meter. One lead on the small pole and one inside center tower pole. The ignitor II is lower then the stock coil so check yours. Look on the coil box for what it suppose to be.. I think was like 0.6 It should be very low. Put your meter on the lowest ohms setting. The primary winding gets the juice together to make a spark and the secondary sends it out the to the distributor.
Either one of these windings can be bad and cause your ignition coil to fail.
So no spark to the plugs..orich
 
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Old Oct 15, 2013 | 11:42 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by 68f10059
I went as far as making the HOLES into SLOTS so I could adjust the air gap and still nothing. I swapped in the old points and condenser and it fired right up...
Idk if this module was supposed to come on an arm so it can be adjusted or not. Mine did not. It came as just the module with the holes that ALMOST lined up with the stock position for the points. I had to drill the holes a little larger so I could secure it to the points plate. Idk if its just because I still dont have everything I need or not. I guess I'm going to try to return it all and be done with it. Or try again later by going with summit or someone. Maybe even Pertronix directly.
This is a Pertronix II setup in a 360. The screw at the bottom is used to adjust the gap since the hole is a slot for movement.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2013 | 12:05 AM
  #24  
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Geez I see you have an very old OEM vacuum advance. Have you checked to see if it's still good. Most guys don't bother to ever check them thing they last for ever..

This pass week was replacing a water pump for my ex-mother inlaws 70 f250. It still has the oem vac advance also so. I checked it and sure as hell it was n/g got one from rockauto $11 bucks shipped, got it today.. Just my 2cents Did not mean to highjack the thread..orich
 
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Old Oct 16, 2013 | 01:08 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by orich
Geez I see you have an very old OEM vacuum advance. Have you checked to see if it's still good. Most guys don't bother to ever check them thing they last for ever..

This pass week was replacing a water pump for my ex-mother inlaws 70 f250. It still has the oem vac advance also so. I checked it and sure as hell it was n/g got one from rockauto $11 bucks shipped, got it today.. Just my 2cents Did not mean to highjack the thread..orich
Yes, it is very up to date. In fact it is now an adjustable old vacuum canister.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2013 | 11:24 AM
  #26  
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Are you using the stock ford coil or did you use a new coil? The stock coils don't work on 12 volts. They use an external resister circuit. Just throwing it out there.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2013 | 11:25 AM
  #27  
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I would call Pertronix technical support. The air gap between the magnet wheel and ignitor should be 0.030". They send a piece of plastic with the kits to use as a feeler gauge, but you can use anything. Less gap may work better some say. Also the vertical alignment of the magnet with the ignitor is also critical. Some people have reported needing to space the magnet wheel up slightly with a washer or shim.

The coil will have 12v through it and showing on the - post when the ignitor is not grounding the coil. It should pulse 12v when cranking on the - terminal if the ignitor is working. The ignitor MAY have an internal resistance spec that you can check, but you need to call Pertronix tech support for that.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2013 | 12:01 PM
  #28  
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Looking at the pic on the 360, mine does not have the silver arm that the module sits on. Mine came as just the red module with a hole on each side. I think the whole set-up is wrong in general from the vendor.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2013 | 12:46 PM
  #29  
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If it's just the module with the two holes where the rivets go, then it has to be wrong. That sounds like just a replacement module. Strange that they would ever come without a mounting plate.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2013 | 12:47 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by 68f10059
Looking at the pic on the 360, mine does not have the silver arm that the module sits on. Mine came as just the red module with a hole on each side. I think the whole set-up is wrong in general from the vendor.

Did he send you this?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pn...view/make/ford

Note that it is a replacement module for a Pertronix Ford Billet distributor and is not for an Autolite distributor. It has the two holes you mention but not the mounting arm for the base plate.

Like I said you need this:

Click enlarge the images

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pn...view/make/ford
 
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