Some KnowHow?
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Some KnowHow?
Anyone know of anyone fluent in all things F100 1970's around the Triad area in NC? I can't seem to get any straight answers or fixes for many issues and downright led astray on many things. Thanks much
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Stanley, VA
What kind of problems are you having?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
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From: NorCal
Well, you only have three posts as of this date. Who has been giving you this advice and what advice have you been receiving?
There are many experienced hobbyists and auto shop owners in here so post up your issues/questions and collectively, we can probably provide you input for your consideration. However, it's also up to you to educate yourself, get your hands dirty, use deductive reasoning, as well as fact-check. We are limited as far as troubleshooting over the web but we'll call BS on anyone if it smells like BS.
There are many experienced hobbyists and auto shop owners in here so post up your issues/questions and collectively, we can probably provide you input for your consideration. However, it's also up to you to educate yourself, get your hands dirty, use deductive reasoning, as well as fact-check. We are limited as far as troubleshooting over the web but we'll call BS on anyone if it smells like BS.
Moderator & parts slinger
Joined: Feb 2007
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From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
There is a X Missouri (we say temp relocated, lol) chapter member that had to unfortunately sale his 79 ford and move to Durham NC.
Go to the NC chapter and look up Ubreal2, we call him "Unk Bob" and he is a stand up guy and has messed with these trucks mechanical and body wise for a # of years. He is one of my best Ford friends, he even got a invite to my wedding.
I am sure he can talk, show, help you get fixed what ever issue you have. Get a Chilton or Haynes manual 12.00 or go to the library and look at them for free and maybe copy the page you need.
Go to the NC chapter and look up Ubreal2, we call him "Unk Bob" and he is a stand up guy and has messed with these trucks mechanical and body wise for a # of years. He is one of my best Ford friends, he even got a invite to my wedding.
I am sure he can talk, show, help you get fixed what ever issue you have. Get a Chilton or Haynes manual 12.00 or go to the library and look at them for free and maybe copy the page you need.
Post Fiend
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From: Lexington Mo
Unk Bob
FTE Legend
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: NY and VA
There is a wealth of knowledge right here. What problems are you having? Will be a little closer to you when I get down to VA. Visit my daughter in Wendel periodically.
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mainly
Most prolific is the lack of power.. 351 w which seems to otherwise be in shape, plugs look right, oil fresh, no major leaks, ...radiator new, tranny(c4) rebuilt recently, yet press the gas and it feels like im in a vacuum .The holley 4 barrel carb looks a bit rigged on the throttle body side and perhaps it is the issue but I know little about them. Can do peripheral stuff but in-depth knowledge I have not. Hesitation and power lacking is main issue. I need exhaust advice later as it needs a new system but only going to redo stock set up(dual factory) so not very pressing. Have replaced the whole steering column and getting some excessive drift to the right mostly. Be going along straight then it goes by itself. Lots of small things but power issue is the crux.
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
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From: NorCal
Whew that took a while! .... The hesitation is likely a carb issue but the overall lack of power (but compared to what? A new Z28?) can be a timing problem or even a clogged exhaust system. Was it like this before the mods or has it been like this since ownership?
A few quick questions:
Drift isn't caused by the steering column per se but rather alignment, tire wear/air pressure, or bent/worn steering components like worn tie rods or a pitman arm that isn't torqued down or is loose. Have ya crawled under there to visually check? What about observing the steering system to very everything moves in unison? And wiggling to check for looseness or play?
A few quick questions:
- Are you sure it's a 351W and not a 351M??
- Is the throttle rod properly adjusted? Meaning, at full throttle are the throttle blades at 90° and not overshooting?
- What size is the carb? There are numbers stamped on the body. Decode them so you and we know what we're working with. For example, an untuned 750 or 850 cfm could be a cause of the symptoms.
- Does the throttle work smoothly with no binding?
- Transmission vacuum line hooked up?
- Was the torque converter replaced when the transmission was rebuilt?
Drift isn't caused by the steering column per se but rather alignment, tire wear/air pressure, or bent/worn steering components like worn tie rods or a pitman arm that isn't torqued down or is loose. Have ya crawled under there to visually check? What about observing the steering system to very everything moves in unison? And wiggling to check for looseness or play?
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heavy man ;o
Im certainly a novice but it has been lacking since I got it about a month ago. As for the Carb I know it to be a 600 cfm 4 bbl and the engine, I was told , was a 351w as I can only tell myself by the deck height. Dunno how to check if an M but as neither were an option in 76' then I figure it is the W. I dont have the know how to check the tranny vacuum nor any of the other specifics you listed but will study my haynes and the net and find those answers. I do know the rod that goes to the trans for gear timing was rigged and needs attention. Manually bent to cure the shifting from 1/2/3 before 35 mph. The torque converter was said to be in decent condition therefore not replaced.
As for the steering actualy just got my floor jack and braces today so will take off the front wheels and check the tie rods/arms and shock assembly. A curious oddity was the fact there was a King Pin behind the front seat when I bought it.... What reason would you have just it? Would it needing replacing be causation of any issues?
As for the steering actualy just got my floor jack and braces today so will take off the front wheels and check the tie rods/arms and shock assembly. A curious oddity was the fact there was a King Pin behind the front seat when I bought it.... What reason would you have just it? Would it needing replacing be causation of any issues?
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 14,333
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From: Stanley, VA
With a "rigged" carburetor my first though was throttle travel too. Remove the air filter, and have someone get in the truck and press the throttle all the way to the floor while you look down the throat of the carb. The two front throttle plates should be completely open (They should be vertical).
The next thing would be if the secondaries are opening and check the timing.
The 351W is an overgrown 302. Look at the thermostat housing, it should bolt to the front of the intake manifold. The two bolts that attach the fuel pump to the block are at the 9 & 3 O'clock position.
The 351M is the same family as the 400. The thermostat housing bolts to the block in front of the intake manifold. The bolts for the fuel pump are at the 6 & 12 O'clock positions.
My bet is its a 351W, thats the more common swap.
The next thing would be if the secondaries are opening and check the timing.
The 351W is an overgrown 302. Look at the thermostat housing, it should bolt to the front of the intake manifold. The two bolts that attach the fuel pump to the block are at the 9 & 3 O'clock position.
The 351M is the same family as the 400. The thermostat housing bolts to the block in front of the intake manifold. The bolts for the fuel pump are at the 6 & 12 O'clock positions.
My bet is its a 351W, thats the more common swap.
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