head studs, etc.
Thread Starter
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Hotshot
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 10,410
Likes: 77
From: Plankinton, SD
head studs, etc.
I ordered my studs, springs, and pushrods today. What I'd like is any tips/tricks/links you guys have to install them listed if you could. Gonna be a couple weeks for sure before I get them in, but I'd like to get a good plan. Means a few of you have done it, maybe you can save me some time.
Thanks again.
Thanks again.
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 2,623
Likes: 0
From: Rockford IL
Sub'd
I too am curious about tips/tricks. Somebody told me you can 'carefully' remove the studs 1 by 1 from a 7.3 motor without having to actually take the heads off the motor.
The "carefully" kind of upset my stomach. I was hoping to find some basic write up with just a few pics cuz i like having a guideline or 'checklist' to give myself some assurance im not completely Fking it up. lol
Good luck Darin. ILL BE WATCHING YOU! i mean your thread.
I too am curious about tips/tricks. Somebody told me you can 'carefully' remove the studs 1 by 1 from a 7.3 motor without having to actually take the heads off the motor.
The "carefully" kind of upset my stomach. I was hoping to find some basic write up with just a few pics cuz i like having a guideline or 'checklist' to give myself some assurance im not completely Fking it up. lol
Good luck Darin. ILL BE WATCHING YOU! i mean your thread.
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 2,623
Likes: 0
From: Rockford IL
Cool.
Found this link! There is some videos of the spring R&R.
Guys say remove bottom engine mounts and then drivers side and jack it up to tilt to clear the studs on one side. Then replace the mount and do same on other.
Here: 7.3 head stud install step by step - PowerStrokeNation : Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
Google rules.
Edit: also a good quote from another head stud bit: "Do them one at a time in the torque sequence in your manual. Torque to stock max torque first then after all of them are installed torque to the specs of your studs in two seperate steps."
It was on a SD section ARP install, but im sure it couldnt hurt to do it that way.
Found this link! There is some videos of the spring R&R.
Guys say remove bottom engine mounts and then drivers side and jack it up to tilt to clear the studs on one side. Then replace the mount and do same on other.
Here: 7.3 head stud install step by step - PowerStrokeNation : Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
Google rules.
Edit: also a good quote from another head stud bit: "Do them one at a time in the torque sequence in your manual. Torque to stock max torque first then after all of them are installed torque to the specs of your studs in two seperate steps."
It was on a SD section ARP install, but im sure it couldnt hurt to do it that way.
Postmaster
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 3,447
Likes: 0
From: Monroe City in
Darin, from what i can remember I took the cover off the ac box to make some room. Also i think i had to loosen the power steering pump up to get one of the studs in. And i also did what Alex said about taking the motor mounts loose and jacking the engine one way or the other. Alex i was nervous at first too about breaking the head gasket seal, but if you just follow the steps it all turns out fine. Also remember that the shorter studs go in a special hole. I think they go right above each injector.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 20,419
Likes: 197
From: AZ
I believe its below the injectors on the outside of the head for the shorter ones. The instructions in the box tells you.
Darin, I would not attempt this job of valve springs without Rolands tool. Without it I don't have any idea how you would get the back ones.
Here is some reading material to help you go to sleep at night!
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...0-upgrade.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-bearings.html
Comp 910 Valve Spring Install How-To - PowerStrokeArmy
7.3 head stud install step by step - PowerStrokeNation : Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...0-upgrade.html
https://skydrive.live.com/P.mvc#!/vi...sionsChanged=1
Darin, I would not attempt this job of valve springs without Rolands tool. Without it I don't have any idea how you would get the back ones.
Here is some reading material to help you go to sleep at night!
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...0-upgrade.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-bearings.html
Comp 910 Valve Spring Install How-To - PowerStrokeArmy
7.3 head stud install step by step - PowerStrokeNation : Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...0-upgrade.html
https://skydrive.live.com/P.mvc#!/vi...sionsChanged=1
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 20,419
Likes: 197
From: AZ
Oh, I forgot, on the passenger side in the middle when I pulled a head stud it had coolant on it. If I did it again, I would blow the holes out before putting in the new studs. This still bothers me even though Travis said I will be fine.
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Hotshot
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 10,008
Likes: 7
From: Austin, TX
The short studs go on the very top of every cylinder. This would be right above the injector bores. If you use a long stud here, the injector hold down will bind on the stud and the injector will not seat correctly.
For the valve springs, make sure the cylinder your working on is at TDC. I've thought of using a fitting in the glow plug hole to pressurize the cylinder with shop air, but never tried to make that happen. Torque each rocker while on the base circle, as I'm sure you're well aware. LOL
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 20,419
Likes: 197
From: AZ
You're fine. LOL Hasn't leaked any coolant yet has it?
The short studs go on the very top of every cylinder. This would be right above the injector bores. If you use a long stud here, the injector hold down will bind on the stud and the injector will not seat correctly.
For the valve springs, make sure the cylinder your working on is at TDC. I've thought of using a fitting in the glow plug hole to pressurize the cylinder with shop air, but never tried to make that happen. Torque each rocker while on the base circle, as I'm sure you're well aware. LOL
The short studs go on the very top of every cylinder. This would be right above the injector bores. If you use a long stud here, the injector hold down will bind on the stud and the injector will not seat correctly.
For the valve springs, make sure the cylinder your working on is at TDC. I've thought of using a fitting in the glow plug hole to pressurize the cylinder with shop air, but never tried to make that happen. Torque each rocker while on the base circle, as I'm sure you're well aware. LOL
Thread Starter
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Hotshot
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 10,410
Likes: 77
From: Plankinton, SD
Thanks guys! Lots of reading for me to do. I'm gonna attack it without Roland's tool. I've got 3 spring compressors, if I can't make one of them work in the hard to get areas, I'll make something work.
