When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Here's a link to the write up, produced by Mark (Tailgate77478), of our Comp Cams 910 valve spring and valve seal replacement procedure. https://skydrive.live.com/P.mvc#!/vi...nsChanged=1&1=
I hope the link works.
I did modify the tool slightly after trying it on the first spring and will be tweaking it a little more before it does its next set of springs.
Thanks again to Mark for the fine job and his & Frank's help with this project.
Last edited by mueckster; Jul 11, 2011 at 10:14 PM.
Reason: new version of write up
Nice wright up When you going to mass produce that valve spring tool?
The tool is already being mass produced......to the tune of over $400. Ford Motorcraft 303-483 Valve Spring Compressor
That's why I built my own, using the head/valve spring measurements provided to me by Cory (Ziggy). Thanks, Cory! The only thing I didn't factor in was the drop of the valve until it contacts the top of the piston. I didn't have that spec. I had to chop off some of the bottom of the tool to allow for more compression of the spring. This in turn causes a need to shorten the pipe that compresses it. I didn't shorten the pipe yet. It works okay like it is, but would be even better on the tigher spots once the changes are made. Overall height would then be shorter. I'll modify the the prototype and then build another to the new specs when more time allows.
Could you not of just pumped some air into the cylinder to keep the valve up?
The valve only drops about 1/8'' or so (didn't measure the actual dimension). Most, who have done the valve spring replacement, do it this way. The drop has the advantage of shortening the overall length of the tool for better clearance on the driver's side rear valve and those by the a/c evaporator case on the passenger side.
The valve only drops about 1/8'' or so (didn't measure the actual dimension). Most, who have done the valve spring replacement, do it this way. The drop has the advantage of shortening the overall length of the tool for better clearance on the driver's side rear valve and those by the a/c evaporator case on the passenger side. Attachment 38569
Last night while revving my truck in park, I noticed that the engine seemed much smoother. Before, I had a bit of a surge while trying to hold it above 2000 rpms. Now, it was holding steady. I'm not sure if maybe I had some weak springs, or it was the fact that the 42 pin connnector had been disconnected & reconnected and was making better contact. There is definitely an improvement in the way it runs from idle on up through the rpm range. After driving to work today, I can say that I "feel" a difference as well and that it was well worth the time to do this project. I didn't get a chance to check the compression before or after the spring install. I need some fittings to adapt my compression tester for it to clear the rocker arm and injector at the glow plug hole and could not use it at this time.
It will and others have used it, but you will have working clearance issues in by the a/c evaporator case and the driver's side rear spring. You can modify like Chris (brownie83) https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-in-truck.html to reduce its height by removing the **** and replacing it with a nut welded in its place. I still think the motor may have to be "rolled" for better access or remove the cover on the evaporator core. You didn't have to take anything off other than the VCs and rocker arms to access the springs using the Rotunda or McTool.
Last edited by mueckster; Jul 11, 2011 at 10:51 PM.
Reason: link to Chris' thread