How tight the damper?
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Junior User
Joined: Aug 2013
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How tight the damper?
So I was installing a new damper on my 72' 390 and I gave it a couple of whacks with a plastic blow hammer, but it only went 1/2". Should I use the bolt and the impact wrench to get it to go the rest of the way?
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,592
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From: **** hole San Jose ca.
No! keep hitting with a bigger hammer. Or make a installer tool with longer threaded bolt & a nut with a washer screwed in the crank snout . Run the bolt all the way in with the washer up against the hub of the damper and the turn the nut until it pushes the hub all the way on to the crank snout..Ps put oil on bolt threads & nut and washer wd40 on snout...orich
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 409
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Yes you should have to use the bolt to get the damper on, but not an impact wrench. I tend to lock the engine up by placing a wrench on a torque converter/pressure plate bolt and wedging that against the block then you can loosen/tighten the damper bolt as needed. you dont want to cross thread, strip or over torque that bolt. If you do you damage the entire crankshaft.......
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 3,038
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From: South west Idaho
In the past i would make an installer tool , not that hard to do. But since i work on a number of different engines i had trouble finding a bolt with the correct thread and correct length for some of the engines . So i bought an installer tool that has all of the adapters i have needed so far . Beats taking a chance of ruining the crank shaft or breaking a bolt off in it . Leave the impact wrench in you tool box.
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 14,255
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From: Phoenix, Az.
I also vote for an installing tool. The bolt would be hard on the threads in the crank and a bigger hammer not even a possibility. The main force of the blows of a bigger hammer will go square on the crankshaft's thrust main bearing.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,592
Likes: 10
From: **** hole San Jose ca.
Hmm imo, I don't think a large plastic/rubber mallet hammer would really do any measurable or visual damage on a fully assembled bottom end one there is zero clearance. That being said where bearning has once made contact. Also having oil or assembly lube on the bearing should help as a cushion at the thrust bearing area.
Note a must, the crank snout an the inner hub of the damper should be very clean no rust or crap that may keep it from going on with ease. The crank snout threads are not to be used too force the damper on. Once they are screwed up or striped then what? As those are sae fine threads that only torque to 70-90 lbs. orich
Note a must, the crank snout an the inner hub of the damper should be very clean no rust or crap that may keep it from going on with ease. The crank snout threads are not to be used too force the damper on. Once they are screwed up or striped then what? As those are sae fine threads that only torque to 70-90 lbs. orich
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I must admit that using a BFH is pretty sexy to me. The engine is out of the truck on a stand and has been rebuilt. I also "polished" the inside of the damper with high grit sand paper. I will touch it up with a brake cylinder polishing doo hick ee and will work it in with the bolt and gentle tapping.
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2006
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I must admit that using a BFH is pretty sexy to me. The engine is out of the truck on a stand and has been rebuilt. I also "polished" the inside of the damper with high grit sand paper. I will touch it up with a brake cylinder polishing doo hick ee and will work it in with the bolt and gentle tapping.
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