Installing Harmonic Balancer
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From: Flaherty, KY
Installing Harmonic Balancer
I'm buttoning up the engine & accessories after having changed out the timing set with an EFI set (straight up timing).
Getting the harmonic balancer off was a royal PIA, though once I had the correct tool it was easy. I just want to be sure I'm reinstalling it the correct way, as the balancer I have is brand new after having trashed the old one trying to take it off. Needless to say, I don't want to throw another $55 down the toilet.
Is there a special tool that needs to be had for this procedure, or do I use the tool that I used to take it off? The tool I used was described as a "steering wheel / harmonic balancer puller" and was the type with the four bolts that thread into the balancer, then you crank the center stud to pull it off. I have no idea if this tool is used for reinstalling it, or if I need to get something different.
I don't believe I can use the crank bolt because not only is it probably too short for the job, but I also mucked up some threads at the snout of the crank trying to get the balancer off. I've since cleaned up the threads with a tap, but the first couple threads on the bolt and in the crank snout are essentially gone.
Any info / directions for this would be appreciated.
Getting the harmonic balancer off was a royal PIA, though once I had the correct tool it was easy. I just want to be sure I'm reinstalling it the correct way, as the balancer I have is brand new after having trashed the old one trying to take it off. Needless to say, I don't want to throw another $55 down the toilet.
Is there a special tool that needs to be had for this procedure, or do I use the tool that I used to take it off? The tool I used was described as a "steering wheel / harmonic balancer puller" and was the type with the four bolts that thread into the balancer, then you crank the center stud to pull it off. I have no idea if this tool is used for reinstalling it, or if I need to get something different.
I don't believe I can use the crank bolt because not only is it probably too short for the job, but I also mucked up some threads at the snout of the crank trying to get the balancer off. I've since cleaned up the threads with a tap, but the first couple threads on the bolt and in the crank snout are essentially gone.
Any info / directions for this would be appreciated.
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From: Denver Metro Area, CO
It should just slide on and can be tightened down using the large bolt in the middle. The torque specs for that bolt are pretty high as I recall, might have to do something to keep the engine from turning while you tighten it down.
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From: Flaherty, KY
I'll try that. Hopefully the bolt is long enough after screwing up the first couple threads.
Should be able to keep the truck in gear & apply the E-brake; that was enough to get the thing off without the motor turning.
Should be able to keep the truck in gear & apply the E-brake; that was enough to get the thing off without the motor turning.
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From: Flaherty, KY
Well it's on there... I suppose that counts for something.
I had to tap the balancer on a little ways with a hammer before the bolt would grab. When I could get it spun a couple threads by hand, I proceeded to use the bolt to pull it on the rest of the way. That was a bad idea, because the already damaged (and subsequently re-tapped) threads gave way, and I lost another portion of the threads.
I ended up having to seat the balancer with the hammer and a block of wood. After re-tapping and cleaning the remaining threads on crank & bolt, the bolt would snug, but it felt loose.
In a last ditch effort, I slathered the bolt with metal epoxy and ran it in. After letting the epoxy set for a few minutes, I was able to tighten the bolt to 70 ft-lb per the manual. I left it at that and hope it stays put. I did not anticipate it giving me this much trouble...
I had to tap the balancer on a little ways with a hammer before the bolt would grab. When I could get it spun a couple threads by hand, I proceeded to use the bolt to pull it on the rest of the way. That was a bad idea, because the already damaged (and subsequently re-tapped) threads gave way, and I lost another portion of the threads.
I ended up having to seat the balancer with the hammer and a block of wood. After re-tapping and cleaning the remaining threads on crank & bolt, the bolt would snug, but it felt loose.
In a last ditch effort, I slathered the bolt with metal epoxy and ran it in. After letting the epoxy set for a few minutes, I was able to tighten the bolt to 70 ft-lb per the manual. I left it at that and hope it stays put. I did not anticipate it giving me this much trouble...
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From: NY and VA
Too late it's on. It's not a good idea to install the balancer with the bolt. The possibility of stripping the crankshaft threads exists (Don't ask). An installer is available. Got mine at Azone who will also loan tools.
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From: In my own world
Like George said, There is an installer for this. it is a threaded rod, with a bearing and a nut on top.
hitting the damper on with a hammer is a bad idea, you can ruin your thrust bearings, and that will allow your crankshaft to walk
hitting the damper on with a hammer is a bad idea, you can ruin your thrust bearings, and that will allow your crankshaft to walk
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pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
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From: EXTREME southwest CT
It's a new balancer, it should go on fairly easily.
I hope you pre-lubed the FMS seal and seal surface.
Is the keyway clean?
I've never had to use a balancer installer.
Just a couple of light taps with a medium size deadblow hammer to get it on.
Last did this about a month ago when I need to re seal my timing case.
I hope you pre-lubed the FMS seal and seal surface.
Is the keyway clean?
I've never had to use a balancer installer.
Just a couple of light taps with a medium size deadblow hammer to get it on.
Last did this about a month ago when I need to re seal my timing case.
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From: Flaherty, KY
It did go right on there more or less. No, you couldn't slide it on with your bare hands, but it didn't take very forceful blows with a hammer to seat it fully. I certainly wasn't worried about doing damage with the small amount of force it took. Had I known that, I would have never tried using the bolt to pull it on.
I lubed the seal and spacer with non-detergent motor oil. I suppose I should have used grease or something, but it's seated nicely. You can slide the spacer on and off the seal with little effort.
I lubed the seal and spacer with non-detergent motor oil. I suppose I should have used grease or something, but it's seated nicely. You can slide the spacer on and off the seal with little effort.
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From: In my own world
Oil is fine for the seal. You just want it lubricated when it first turns. If it were dry, it would rip the rubber, and cause an oil leak
As long as you didn't hit the damper " like you mean it" You should be fine
As long as you didn't hit the damper " like you mean it" You should be fine
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
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From: EXTREME southwest CT
Engine oil is the only thing it will ever see anyhow.
No need for anything special, as long as it does not start dry/
If I'm assembling a fresh engine I may use STP (or whatever I'm using on everything else) otherwise just what is on the dipstick.
Edit: Good advice Charlie!
No need for anything special, as long as it does not start dry/
If I'm assembling a fresh engine I may use STP (or whatever I'm using on everything else) otherwise just what is on the dipstick.
Edit: Good advice Charlie!
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