2001 F250 SD 7.3 Problems! Help!
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 17,988
Likes: 207
From: La La Land
The gear train is about as-conventional as it gets for gear-driven sets (not chain-driven). Large gear on top, smaller one on the bottom.
Just because the sensor is near the crank doesn't mean the cam gear isn't what's behind it.
Pop
Just because the sensor is near the crank doesn't mean the cam gear isn't what's behind it.
Pop
Veteran/Sheepdog
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 6,047
Likes: 110
From: Western AR
Thanks for posting the pic, Pop! If one looks at the photo, he sees the square "windows" around the periphery of the wheel/gear. Those are what the CPS is sensing - the absence of metal in the windows. They are spaced/sized a certain way to tell the computer which cylinder is where so the injection sequence is correct.
New User
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
This is my EXACT problem. I have a 1999 7.3 F250 and my problems are just like yours. The "Service Engine Soon" light comes on, and it DIES when you make a turn (or anytime you slow down) I've learned to put it in neutral so it will stay revved until I accelerate after the turn.
Also, at full speed the engine "surges" and the whole truck kinda jumps. There is a leak in the turbo, and air comes out when you rev it. Also oil comes out. PLEASE HELP
Also, at full speed the engine "surges" and the whole truck kinda jumps. There is a leak in the turbo, and air comes out when you rev it. Also oil comes out. PLEASE HELP
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 18,849
Likes: 179
From: Puget Sound
Backfires are a result of ignition at the wrong time. Either the "arms" are already bent from using ether (worst-case scenario), or your fuel is getting in the cylinder at the wrong time. A cam position sensor tells the PCM when the time is right, then the PCM tuning does the rest. If you have a custom tune, start by getting it back to stock tuning. If you have stock tuning, the engine is not bent, the CPS is working correctly, and the PCM is functioning properly, then fuel is jumping into the cylinders without a by or leave from the fuel control system. There is one way this can happen.
Fuel is held back from the cylinder by an injector O-ring in the cup, and a copper washer on the nozzle. If the copper washer and O-ring both fail (it happens), then you get full-time fuel into the cylinder and compression goes gunnybags. You also get a condition where the combustion gasses feed back into the fuel rail, sending a huge pressure spike into the system and you get a "jerk" when you apply throttle - I have experienced this with loose injector bolts. The loose injector bolt condition is usually accompanied by some pretty loud banging that can be heard best under the truck. Loose injector bolts certainly allow combustion gasses and fuel to flow freely around the injector nozzle copper washer and fuel O-rings, plus oil can mix with your fuel. If left unchecked, the combustion gasses can damage the cup - allowing fuel and/or soot into your coolant. This leaves a mess that can be seen in the degas bottle. Ask my how I know so much about loose injectors and cup damage in such great detail.
Check your injector hold-down bolt torque (book says 120 INCH pounds, but 130 is the norm). If it's below 50, you need O-rings on the injector with the low reading. If they're all fine, you need a whole set of O-rings.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
bfd_freddie
1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
5
Sep 28, 2009 03:04 PM
