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This is my first post to the 6.7 site. I still have my 04 F350 but I got a new John Deere and with Batwing mower and trailer totaled about 22,000 pounds. The 6.0 was having some issues with the Florida heat, oil and coolant about 220 degrees and me going slow to save my head gaskets.
To cut it short, I went and bought a 2013 F-450 Lariet. It is soooo sweet.
Tonight I installed my diesel transfer tank and pump and would like to install the power through one of the 25 amp upfitter switches.
The question being; Can I SAFELY change the fuse up to 30 amp ( required for the pump) without changing anything else on the upfitter system. I checked the tech guide and did not see anything on this.
I guess I will have to upgrade my profile with my new baby.
To go from an 04 to a 13 is a major high tech upgrade in the cab,
The wiring etc. will most likely be gauged for 25amps, so how long do you run your pump for?
30amps is no big increase, so as long as you don't run your pump for an hour straight, I think you will be fine.
This is my first post to the 6.7 site. I still have my 04 F350 but I got a new John Deere and with Batwing mower and trailer totaled about 22,000 pounds. The 6.0 was having some issues with the Florida heat, oil and coolant about 220 degrees and me going slow to save my head gaskets.
To cut it short, I went and bought a 2013 F-450 Lariet. It is soooo sweet.
Tonight I installed my diesel transfer tank and pump and would like to install the power through one of the 25 amp upfitter switches.
The question being; Can I SAFELY change the fuse up to 30 amp ( required for the pump) without changing anything else on the upfitter system. I checked the tech guide and did not see anything on this.
I guess I will have to upgrade my profile with my new baby.
To go from an 04 to a 13 is a major high tech upgrade in the cab,
Big Red 5205
Howdy,
It would depend on how much current the pump draws from the electrical system. If the pump must be protected with a 30A fuse, it certainly doesn't draw 30A. and It probably doesn't draw 25 amps either.
FOMOCO will most certainly NOT sanction you increasing any fuse to a rating above the recommended rating. (although it will probably work)
If you do, you're on your own if you have any sort of electrical fire.
If the pump will not keep running with a 25A fuse (I suspect it will) you could add a relay capable of switching the required current. Then you could just use one of the much lower rated switches to control the relay.
The pump info (Fillrite 15GPM ) states that it draws 20 amps and to protect it with a 30 amp fuse. I will only have it on for about 2 minutes at a time. Tractor hold 38 gallons. The 25 amp most likely will work, with 12 gauge wiring.
Big Red
I would measure the current while it's running normal load, so if it's a transfer pump that would be meaning it's primed with product and pushing it through the hose and nozzle that would be normally attached to it.
I don't guess when it comes to this kind of stuff. Especially when giving advice to a stranger on an internet forum.
This is where a DC clamp meter would be handy or a current shunt would be nice. Flip the meter into min/max to measure what the startup current is.
I wire slip tanks into upfitter #1 or #2 using the stock fuse and don't have issues. Most common model I encounter is the Fill-Rite 15 and 20GPM, FR1200 and 4200 I think are the models respectively. And these have about a half hour duty cycle so it's not intended for continuous use anyway.
Thanks for the replies guys, I figured that I would meter it after it's wired on one of the 25 amp switches. If the motor is drawing 20 or more amps, I might rewire it with a relay. It's advertised as a 20 amp draw, but hopefully it's less.
Yeah the worst case you pop a $2.50 fuse doing that. If you do then go ahead and cascade relays, then you can use Aux 3 or 4 and leave 1 and 2 for other loads.
Yeah the worst case you pop a $2.50 fuse doing that. If you do then go ahead and cascade relays, then you can use Aux 3 or 4 and leave 1 and 2 for other loads.
Wow, expensive fuses!
Originally Posted by Big Red 5205
Thanks for the replies guys, I figured that I would meter it after it's wired on one of the 25 amp switches. If the motor is drawing 20 or more amps, I might rewire it with a relay. It's advertised as a 20 amp draw, but hopefully it's less.
I did a little looking around and found the following Ford Bulletin
Yes they have relays. It's just behind the knee panel under the steering wheel. That part comes off easy with plastic clips, no fasteners to remove for easy access to the shrinkwrapped wire ends.
I have no doubt that the relays can handle current, it's the wiring to and from the relay contacts that would probably dictate the ampacity of the circuit.
Upfitter, as in truck upfitters... usually they buy the incomplete vehicle and put service bodies or flatbeds or busses or ambulances etc. In this case these are incomplete switches, they do nothing until you hook up a load to it. Best feature ever and I am glad to see other automakers following suit. I almost wish it could be more than just 4!
I have a 60 gallon RDS tank that's pumped by an Airtex 8153 to rear tank. If I remember right it's 35 GPH and it along with a 12 volt shutoff valve, and AutoMeter fuel gauge are all hooked to upfitter #3. I also have a 7.5 amp inline fuse to the pump. All the wiring passes thru the rubber plug behind the amp unit under the rear seat. I have blown this fuse once. It was in Williams, Az on a cold 18 degree morning. The only time this has happened, I should have waited for it to warm up outside a little first.
When I let the stock 40 gallon tank get really low I sometimes pump for 30-45 minutes at a time, no problems. All the transferred fuel goes thru a Wix 33123 fuel filter/water separator. All fuel treated with Power Source white or grey according to time of year.
Perhaps you are using a much higher capacity pump.
Yes they have relays. It's just behind the knee panel under the steering wheel. That part comes off easy with plastic clips, no fasteners to remove for easy access to the shrinkwrapped wire ends.
I have no doubt that the relays can handle current, it's the wiring to and from the relay contacts that would probably dictate the ampacity of the circuit.
Upfitter, as in truck upfitters... usually they buy the incomplete vehicle and put service bodies or flatbeds or busses or ambulances etc. In this case these are incomplete switches, they do nothing until you hook up a load to it. Best feature ever and I am glad to see other automakers following suit. I almost wish it could be more than just 4!
I agree that the upfiitter switches are a great feature, I just hooked up my first accessory this past weekend... an Airlift Wireless One system for my Firestone Air Bags. It required a 15A ignition source, so I used Switch circuit #4 (brown wire).
What I noticed is the seemingly small wires. When I stripped the stub end off it appeared to be 18 gauge. I couldn't find anywhere in the diagrams that says what size wires are used in the Upfitter harness. It was awkward attaching a 12 gauge feed wire from the Airlift compressor to a small 18 gauge wire coming out of the bundle.
Any thoughts on the smallish wire size?
Another thing... I like having the power fed to the compressor through a fuse and relay that is built into the trucks wiring, but now I just have to make sure the #4 switch is always on. Has anyone gone in and bypassed a switch with a wire so that the relay is energized regardless of the switch position?
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