Ive been having issues with air intrusion so I installed an electric fuel pump. At first i used small wiring 16-18 guage, the pump worked fine but then the wires fried. I installed 12 gauge wiring, to a 16 amp switch, fuse link wired inline, with 40 amp fuses. I tried using the power source from cigarette lighter but it keeps blowing the fuse at the fuse panel. I've also tried the power side on the starter solenoid on the pass front fender but every time I turn the switch off it blows the 40amp fuses. My question is where is a good source of power to use for the electric fuel pump? Thanks in adv.ance.

Forgot to mention its a 7.3 idi 1991 f350

 

bring the power directly off the battery into a fuse then to a relay.hook it up like this:
Wiring accessories with a relay

with pin #87 being the positive wire of e-pump and pin #85 being a jumper wire off of your FSS (the center most wire on top of the ip.)
ok?

warning;
do not try and power the e-pump directly off the fss.only use it to trigger open your relay as instructed above.

 

Does it matter on the amperage of the fuses and relays? Also I'm using the pump on a switch to prime the system, I'm still using the mechanical fuel pump so why would I run the relay off of the fuel shutoff solenoid?

 

oh i see.
well setup just as described.but put a switch between the fss jumper and pin #85.that way the relay opens only when your switch is on.the wire running into the cab from fss power to your switch,then back to pin #85 (keeping the power line to fss directly connected still) can be tiny little wire.there won't be any draw on it this way.very,very tiny bit to open relay.main juice to power pump flows directly from battery this way.
just a standard 30 or 40 amp relay sold at the auto stores.
use a 2 amp fuse.have a 5 amp handy if that seems too small.-mine has never blown the 2.pretty sure that's what i put in there.might be a 5.anywho,that'll do ya. without knowing exactly what you have for a pump it's just a guess.they generally don't pull much though.ideally,you'll look your power draw up.

 

Thanks I think I got it down.

 

There is three wires on the injection pump which one is it?

 

I have a 93, 7.3 Diesel F-250 with 295K miles, but problem is fuel related. Is there an electric fuel pump prior to the injector pump on the engine area? I know there are pumps on each fuel tank, but I hear a clicking sound after the glow plug relay turns off. Sometimes after setting a few days, it clicks fast and furious, while other times it only clicks a few times. It will not start until this completes the cycle. I have not found anything in the owners manual concerning this pump, or what is going to happen. I have had the truck since it was new, and have not had trouble till now with fuel being pressured to the injector pump.

 

FORDF250HDXLT thank you very much!! It took me about 30 min to install everything. It was really easy with the diagram. Now I turn the key hit the switch for 20 seconds while my gps are warming up then BAM!!! Just like that fuel systems primed turns right on. I'm using mr gasket 12d 12 gauge wiring 12 gauge fuse link 15amp fuse, 15 amp switch, 30 amp fuel pump relay. Thanks again!!!

 

abriel68,
there ya go.now if she wants to drain back on ya (common) oh well.you don't have to struggle trying to hunt down where air leaks but fuel doesn't.hit the pump and fire 'er up.fix any fuel leaks when/if they happen of course but those are easy to find.
now if you ever notice a fuel prime issue even with your e-pump in the future,you'll know to look on the suction side pre- e-pump must have a pinhole.like in the line or rusting out pickup tube.
i used that pump first,but i used it full time.she didn't last but only a year.it'll likely last ya a long time one would think just used for priming like that.
your starter is going to thank you now.

if your ever decide to go a more full time/permanent e-pump only route someday,be sure to check this out;
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post10774080
those are what they use on the refer trucks.they last for years and years running right straight ahead.

good luck.your welcome.

.............

Lary,
there is only a mechanical lift pump from the factory.what you are hearing is normal.that's the glow plug relay.that extra clicking after the wait to start light goes out,is busts of power going to the plugs to help keep the cylinders warm and aid in keeping the engine from stalling for a few seconds.it's called afterglow and it should always do this.
normally you want to start the engine right up when the light goes out so those extra "clicks" are done while the engine is running.
most likely the reason why it now has some erratic cycling (clicks you hear) and why you have to wait until after all those "clicks" are over,is because you have some bad glow plugs.by waiting for all the cycles,the extra warmth is compensating for the poor plugs,and helps you start it.
when all of them work properly everything cycles correctly,and you can start when the light goes out.
to test the plugs,use an ohm meter or test light.to completely test the whole system follow these instructions;
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...low-plugs.html

when you replace the glow plugs,be sure to use motorcraft brand only.off brand plugs have been widely known to fail early,and get stuck in the head.requiring head removal in many cases.sometimes even costing owners entire engine rebuilds.the plugs can be bought online at places like amazon or rock auto for about 10$ each.so don't try and skimp here.
the ones for your '93 are motorcraft ZD9 (they are made by a co.in Germany called BERU.)
you can clearly see all of them on top of the engine.next to the injectors/the fuel hoses up top there.they are the little mini spark plug looking things (i have no idea what kind of shade tree mechanic you are,if this is obvious to you,i mean no offense) with the wire plugs on top.simply pull the plugs off and crank 'em out like you would a spark plug.during install,coat a little with anti-seize and screw back in.just snug with a 1/4 drive ratchet.real nice and easy.