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I'm about to do the in-tank mod with remote filter and booster pump. My question is will the existing circuit that runs the OEM pressure pump be able to handle the addtional 4.5 amps tied to it or should I run a relay off of that circuit with a dedicated feed to the booster. If I run off the existing circuit should I increase the amp rating 5amps?
You don't want to do that. The OE pump circuit is rated for the wire size. If you add an additional 5 amp draw and put a higher amp fuse in the circuit you stand a good chance of overheating the wires. You also may not get all the power you want to the OE pump.
You're going to want to use a relay to run your lifter pump. Use the OE circuit to activate the relay, I just used a ring terminal on the + of the OE pump and a length of wire to the relay to activate it. That way they both turn on and off at the same time.
I guess my question is why do you think you need a lift pump? Stock system handles 500+ HP. All I have is the in-tank mods & RR on mine with stock pump. It feeds my hybrids just fine. Not trying to be a smartass here- that is really complicating your fuel system for no reason. Unless you're planning on building a monster PSD, that is.
That's what I was thinking. Is there a suggested tap point to pull power from the run side of the ignition switch? I don't have any schematics on wiring for this truck. Thanks
Just thinking about removing the strain from the OEM pump pulling thru the pre-filter. Thought of increasing it's life. But if everybodys in agreement that it's not needed, I'm all for leaving it out.
Man, they last for years & hundreds of thousands of miles. I *may* put in a Walbro GLS392 after I get all my other mods done, but seriously -- once you do the pre-pump & RR mods, the stock pump will keep enough pressure on stock sticks for sure, and even up to good size hybrids like mine.
Just thinking about removing the strain from the OEM pump pulling thru the pre-filter. Thought of increasing it's life. But if everybodys in agreement that it's not needed, I'm all for leaving it out.
It's up to you, you can try it and see if it works. My factory pumped died within 500 miles after I added the ITP kit with the pre-pump filter and did the in tank mods. So after I replaced the factory pump with a new one, I added a lift pump. Can't say for sure if it was coincidence or if making the OE pump pull through a filter caused it to go, but I wasn't going to chance it again and be left stranded because of it. Plus it was less than $100 for the lifter pump and wiring harness with relay from Jegs.
FWIW, I'm pulling power for lift pump right from the battery. It's just easier that way to go from there and put a fuse or circuit breaker in line.
Keith,
How is that pump holding out, and how long has it been on your truck. Jegs only shows it for use with alchol, gasoline. (diesel is not mentioned )
My heavily modded fuel system has the stock fuel pump relocated so that it is pulling veggie oil through a 5 micron filter. It has lasted 28,000 miles and counting. I figure if it pulls veggie oil through a 5 micron filter, pulling diesel through a 2 micron should be no problem.
Keith,
How is that pump holding out, and how long has it been on your truck. Jegs only shows it for use with alchol, gasoline. (diesel is not mentioned )
So far it's just fine. I was concerned with the lack of a diesel endorsement too. They do have a marine pump just like it with the same specs that says good with diesel. But when I called Federal Mogul they said it would be ok. So I went the cheaper route, if it does fail because of diesel use I'll use the marine version. I figured if he said it was ok and also good with race gas, alcohol, gasohol, etc it should be fine for diesel.
The first pump lasted 200k + miles, I'd like the second one last as long if not longer. I know there's no guaranty, it could die tomorrow but I'd like to give it a fighting chance. My primary consern is keeping air out, reducing injector noise, increasing injector life, and of course try to improve mpg and hp.