Hi everyone i am a new guy,
So here is my question i revently bought an 89 Bronco which someone put a ^ in suspensio lift dual front shocks dual stabalizers as well as a 3 in body lift on. Then they proceded to put 38x12.50 SuperSwampers on with 16 in wheels. Not bad but they did not gear it at all. So what does everyone reccomend as far as a gear ration to run those tires? I have heard do 4.56 4.88 5.13. Also what kind of locker configuration is reccomended? Front or Front and rear or fully locked in the rear with an OX or an ARB in front? Also my steering really sucks. Is there anyway to ge the slop out of it?

 

I run 39.5 Boggers and 4:88s work for me............Detroit locker is the way to go weather its front or rear. Unless you have the coin for ARB.

Need more info on steering.........whats it doing?

 

Since Swampers are fairly close to their advertised size, unlike most tires, I'd say Bronc is right on with the 4.88 gears. You wouldn't be happy with 5.13s on the highway, and you wouldn't be happy with the low end with 4.56s. I'd put a Detroit in the rear, and an arb in the front. If money doesn't matter put an arb front and rear because your tail end does better in the ice unlocked anyways. If the slop is in your wheel you can check your rag joint but the first thing I'd do is make sure the adjuster nut on your steering box is tightened correctly. Now that I think about it, I'm not sure if an 89 box has that adjuster but I'd assume so...

almost forgot.....I recomend arb over ox because although I like the ox product itself, the customer service is the worst in the biz and there have been some pretty strong rumors lately that they are going out of business. Arbs work and aren't going anywhere. I wouldn't want to take the gamble on the ox...

 

The OX is out of the question anyways. Not made for the 8.8 or the TTB 44.

My suggestion: Detroit rear, ARB front. 4.88's would work great for something that is street driven. If you have OD, you could go a little lower and still be somewhat comfortable on the highway. It depends on how much street to trail driving it actually sees.

Steering? Swampers are not the most street friendly tires around. You can expect a bit of wandering and rough ride from them. But, those that run them put up with the manners for the off road traction.

Check out the suspension bushings (radius arms, axle pivots), check suspension mounting and lift kit bracketry. They are pretty famous for coming loose and egging out the holes, cracking or completely coming apart. Have someone turn the wheel back and forth while you check steering linkage and all attachments.
Also, TTB Fords with big lifts tend to have poor handling without steering correction, like the Superlift superrunner kit.

Before you try to adjust the steering box, make sure that it is centered (the tightest tolerance). If you tighten it off center, you can bend the sector shaft and damage the steering box. To center the box, remove the draglink from the pitman arm. Turn all the way to one side and count the number of turns lock to lock. Turn the wheel back half this number. You may find that the draglink will not connect to the pitman arm anymore. I can't recall if they have 2 adjustments on the 4wd steering linkage (one for toe in and one for draglink adjustment).

Jason

 

First of all thanks to everyone for the replies great information

To describe the steering issue, when i say sloppy there is a ton of play in the wheel. When you are riding down the road and the swampers give you that normal pull that they usually do you will turn the wheel almost a 1/4 turn befire its going to respond to the motion. Kinda makes it sketchy when traveling on the back roads heading different places. I know from other lifted trucks that i have had that it won't drive down the road straight and narrow but i have always had a tighter steering feel when i had lifted other trucks. In looking at the steering box it looked fairly new whn i bought the truck although when we got it home the drag link nut was 2 turns from coming off. So maybe it needs to be adjusted.

 

Check out the suspension bushings (radius arms, axle pivots), check suspension mounting and lift kit bracketry. They are pretty famous for coming loose and egging out the holes, cracking or completely coming apart. Have someone turn the wheel back and forth while you check steering linkage and all attachments.
Also, TTB Fords with big lifts tend to have poor handling without steering correction, like the Superlift superrunner kit.

Before you try to adjust the steering box, make sure that it is centered (the tightest tolerance). If you tighten it off center, you can bend the sector shaft and damage the steering box. To center the box, remove the draglink from the pitman arm. Turn all the way to one side and count the number of turns lock to lock. Turn the wheel back half this number. You may find that the draglink will not connect to the pitman arm anymore. I can't recall if they have 2 adjustments on the 4wd steering linkage (one for toe in and one for draglink adjustment).

Jason [/B][/QUOTE]
When you say centerd what do you mean?
The box itself on the mount or somethign else?
What do i do if the draglink will not connect back to the pitman arm?
I do have a manual should i check in that for adjustment or is there and easier way. Thanks for all your help.

 

When I said center the steering box, I mean the box internals, not the mounting to the frame.

When you count the turns of the wheel from lock to lock and divide by 2, that is the center point in the steering box. This point is the tightest tolerance (between the sector and the worm gear) and will give the best steering feel when adjusted properly.
Any point off center will cause play in the steering. Does that make more sense?

There is are 2 adjustments on the steering linkage. One adjusts the toe in and the other will change the length of the draglink to connect to the pitman arm. I can't remember which is which. Sometimes there is not enough adjustment with the stock linkage.

Jason

 

Got it thanks Crawler