This engine is built mostly for the rpm range of 1300 to 2300 rpms. I built the exhaust as what it should have been stock in my mind, and is simliar to the powerstroke. The engine is an 1993 factory turbo. I have sleeved the engine, put stock compression turbo hard anodized pistons into it, had my own low end grind cam made (more dynamic compression), arp head studs torqued to 150, 6.9 idi solid flywheel match balanced, and drilled for 12 1/4 psd clutch. my own custom intake, custom manifolds/ up pipes 2" id to turbo, psd turbo with stock compressor and .84 ar quick spool exh housing, rebuilt center section, stock psd pedestal modified to fit, custom pedestal to bolt to adapter plate, custom turbo drain into valley pan, custom turbo feed lines, and down pipe 3 inch elbow into 2 2inch pipes due to limited room. I ran the engine for a year after rebuild n/a which was painful. I am running the pump at the same fuel rate as (light hase) n/a with the turbo, and the power difference is still amasing. The boost comes on at 1200 with no smoke, and it has a huge amount of whistle. I still have to install pyro, and boost guages so I havent turned the fuel up yet. The ugly boost pipe is temporary as I will be adding an air to air. A few pics are of my mock up engine.

 

Looks good need better pixs of your turbo set up.

 

Nice build man, great fab work on that turbo set up. Keep us posted as you get it tuned in and intercooled...

 

Looking good, you've come to the right place for a build thread.... keep at it...

 

Right on! Lovin the manifolds/up pipes

 

How well will a sleeved motor hold up?

 

nice work man, Im jealous of your up-pipe setup. I wanna do mine like that eventually

 

Looks good, I was thinking of doing something simlar, but with a newer psd turbo so the turbo would come off easier. can you take a pic of what you did with the pedestal.

 

Looks great. Would like to see pictures of the turbo set up piece by piece to see just how you did this. I just happen to have one seating around.

 

Im assuming the engine is going/was in the bricknose in the background? whats the story on the truck?

 

The turbo is in the truck and everythings tight in there. I will try to get pics. The stock psd pedestal I cut all the mounting ears off of it besides the turbo feed/drain mounting. The pedestal bolts to a second pedestal that bolts to the drilled/tapped trans adapter plate. I used the pipe plug on the back of the pedestal as my feed, and drilled/tapped for 1/4 npt. For the drain, directly underneath the turbo I drilled a hole for 5/8 or 3/4 npt cant remember in the pedestal. Built a thread in steel plumbing pipe drain that goes into the valley pan. The only reason I used the stock psd pedestal is because I plan on using the ebpv valve for warm up and exh brake. I would probably build a full custom pedestal for the turbo if I did it again, would be easier. The turbo will not fit with the stock intake, must be modified. The sleeves i think will not affect the strength of the block, the machine shop that did mine said he does cummins 5.9 blocks all the time, as people push them too hard and melt them down. The truck is a 91 f250 with dana 60 front, f350 springs with 2 added in back and 1 in front, 3.55 gearing just regeared from 4.10, custom ugly front bumper to match deck, zf5 conversion rebuilt sf 47 trans, cab from 1990 truck, very heavy flat deck with led tail lights, electric holley red fuel pump, and 5 inch twin stacks. I have had the truck for 4 years, and have no kidding removed every bolt in the truck. I have also modified and rebuilt most everything to my liking.

 

Creativity is the only way to get it done.... Now you need a pump...

 

love the name bro. thunder stroke :-)

curious how much were your sleeves and turbo/customised if you don't mind me asking

 

I do agree I will need a better pump as this pump will probly not supply enough, lookin for 300whp. I just installed pyro, and im only runnin 900 degrees wot at 1400 rpm so time to turn pump up. The turbo setup cost $800 to build including rebuild kit. Sleeves $34 a piece, and $70 a hole to install. The sleeves are melling hp (hardened) and are the only way to go. The non hp are softer material then the block and wear faster. Some pics of it in the truck, and my down pipe. Dont mind the extension cord, previous owner used it for glow plug switch.

 

Did you make the double pipe downpipe so you dont have to crimp it to clear the firewall? Thats differnt, never really thought about that. I bet it works though