I posted a thread in the body/paint section of the forum but there isn't much interest in that side of the forum plus my inquiry isn't really about auto paint. *shrug*
Maybe there are a few more here that have experience in using the different brands on trucks or actual tractors...

I am getting my truck sprayed with an implement paint.
I haven't settled on a brand yet but would like more color options than what some of these offer, or find a place to mix a color. If there is a place that will mix any color you bring in, I would love to know..

Which implement paint would you go with and why? Add yours here since I am not familiar with the various options available.
rustoleum - lots of colors to choose from
majic - replaced valspar at Tractor supply, basic color options
ace rust stop - relabeled rustoleum? lots of colors and custom color mix
sherwin williams industrial paint -? know nothing about it probably most expensive out of all implement paint options?
valspar - not sure if it's sold locally anymore or if it is even sold still.

Don't mind the last poll option, only there for that guy who recommends auto paint.

 

Case Ironguard enamel. Easiest stuff I have ever used. Cures out rock hard and buffs out nice.
It is single stage paint so it is easy to repair but you need to wax it once a year.
Sells at International/Case tractor dealers.

 

I've only used majic, which sprays well when properly thinned and is durable. I've heard good things about rustoleum but have never used it myself. In my experience, and this may not be the case with everybody, these finishes don't last very long. It seems that unless the vehicle is garage kept the finish fades after a few years and becomes pretty dull. But the price is right, I may paint my '70 with majic IH white

 

I have used Rustoleum satin black on trim bumpers and running boards of an old truck (PW). It sprays well, looks good and - given time to harden - is tough. I thinned with paint thinner until it sprayed well (~15-20%).

 

I used ace rust stop. Great paint takes forever to dry when sprayed and like all of them has a tendency to fade fast unless garage or shed kept. Just my experience

 

Keep em coming. Most of the paints listed I have heard good things about.
I will be thinning and adding hardener to whatever paint I settle on. Majic sells a clear coat they say is ok to apply over their paint which might help with fade if I decide to go that far.
I think I read the hardener helps with UV protection as well.
That Ironguard appears to be made by Valspar for Case so I'm sure it's good.
I'm ok with it looking good from 20 feet and preventing/slowing rust.
By the time the fading sets in it might need another coat anyway.

 

Majic paint is pretty good. So is ace rust stop. Don't use majic primer though it sprays great and is nice an thick but doesn't sand for s$&t. It ***** up really bad when sanded.

 

Shooting a clear coat will help the paint keep from fading. I did a fast crappy paint job on the tailgate of my 79 with rustoleum. I then bought some duplicolor clear coat from Autozone and sprayed it on. The paint hasn't faded a bit after sitting outside for 3 years.

 

Implement paint holds up well but as others said fades. A clear coat would help alot like already mentioned, but test a piece first just to see how it reacts. Implement or single stage paint doesn't recommend clear coating so you would just have to see how it works.

 

Check out Van Sickle paint they have a web site and is commonly sold through Orschlen's (like TSC). Pretty good paint and they sell a hardener to go with for durability and shine. I have contacted them by phone and they will do custom colors.

 

Ace will discontinue the bases to custom tint Rust Stop colors very soon. The colorants are being changed and are not compatible... hopefully it will change in the future.

 

It takes a long long time to actually get hard. It stays soft.

 

CHAIN STOP Enamel, custom tinting available, and it lives up to it's name. Sprays wonderful, cheaper by the gallon, thin with xylene or laquer, regular maintenance, add hardner catalyst for a nicer shinier finish.

 

I'd like to see how this turns out. Altough I'm in the wrong forum also, (I have an '89 F150) I'm considering spraying it with Van Sickle Ford gloss blue. Found this thread while searching to try to learn about how to thin and use hardener. Like you, a 20' paint job is fine with me since most of the original paint is missing, but my body is fairly straight.

 

I plan on using Martin Senour Premium Commercial Coating to do the inside of my baja bug. Single stage, best if you use their epoxy primer underneath. I've yet to spray anything with it, but my boss at work used the white PCC to paint his wife's mail jeep, and it looks great. Tough stuff too. He used Martin Senour crossfire epoxy primer under the PCC.

It's cheap as far as paint goes. A gallon of primer cost me $55 and the reducer was $20 for the gallon. Granted there was my employee discount for buying it though the store I work at, we retail it for something like $65 or $70 per gallon.


-Jameson