bleeder screw stripped front
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: va
bleeder screw stripped front
I replaced both front brake hoses and was not able to bleed the front left DS. If I would break the bleeder screw off. Would I have to drill and tap it from inside. Not much room on the out side to reach. Can you use antiseize on the new ones? Do they make rust free ones? Any ideas? 
thanks
mike
thanks
mike
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2005
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From: Charles Town, W bygod Va
Drilling is not easy because you will mess up the seat and your new bleeder will leak. A reman caliper would be the easist thing to do... they arent that much. Heating the caliper next to the bleeder may work also.
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Joined: Sep 2008
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From: northern ontario, canada
heat up the caliper near the bleeder screw till it gets red hot and the pour lots of water on it and then use a pair of vise grips to take the screw out, i've done this on both my calipers and all i did was replace the bleeder screw.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: va
Thanks I tried a propane torch and water no luck. The brakes seem to work fine right now. I let all the air out before tightening the lower brake hose bolt. I read that some people never use there bleeding screws just this method. Any thoughts.
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2011
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From: Hartland, WI
Replace the caliper. Brakes arent something to cut corners on, especially when a reman caliper can be had for a reasonable amount. If air gets in that caliper it won't work, and the truck will pull hard to the side with the working caliper when applying the brakes. IMO I'd replace both as a set to ensure everything is balanced.
Elder User
Joined: Jun 2012
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From: Plant city florida
I have this issue on my f350 and I can almost floor the brake pedal and and barely stop in a resonance distance and I have no right side brakes even. If your gonna do it do it right.
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Posting Guru
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From: VA
You'd be best to just replace the caliper. As Bashby said, drilling will mess up the seat inside there. The seat is what seals it, not the threads. The threads just hold it against the seat. You could try heat, but I don't love the idea. You have to be careful because it has rubber seals inside and you could screw them up if you got it too hot.
The caliper isn't that expensive if you end up having to replace it.
The caliper isn't that expensive if you end up having to replace it.
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From: VA
On a side note, this sounds like you need to adjust your shoes in the rear. You may have other issues as well, but you should be able to get the brake pedal harder by adjusting the shoes up.
Elder User
Joined: Jun 2012
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From: Plant city florida
I think the rears are grabbing fine causenatter what I can't spin on rear tire with the brakes on in dirt or anything and mybrothers f150 will sit there and spin one front and one rear in 4 low brakes to the floor. My right side caliper makes so little heat you can touch it right after breaking and I just put new pads on it. It was bad before then and I know it's leaking somewhere.
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Joined: Apr 2011
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From: Hartland, WI
I think the rears are grabbing fine causenatter what I can't spin on rear tire with the brakes on in dirt or anything and mybrothers f150 will sit there and spin one front and one rear in 4 low brakes to the floor. My right side caliper makes so little heat you can touch it right after breaking and I just put new pads on it. It was bad before then and I know it's leaking somewhere.
You may have a collapsed hose as well. If the pedal fades away and goes to the floor with no visible leaks, your master cylinder may be bad. The seals can fail internally and cause them to not develop pressure, or they may leak into the brake booster. Use line clamps (NOT vice-grips) and clamp all three hoses. See if you have a pedal. If no pedal, suspect the master. remove the clamps one by one to pinpoint where your pressure loss is.
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Jan 2, 2004 11:34 PM