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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Cab Painted...

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Old Oct 26, 2013 | 02:20 PM
  #31  
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wow, shiny on the paint and nice texture on the lizard. doing nice work, congrats.
 
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Old Dec 4, 2013 | 08:41 AM
  #32  
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Charlie, beautiful paint job! I'll be attempting my first paint job on my '53 in a few weeks. (Garage style) How much paint do these trucks require? Thx, Tod
 
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Old Dec 4, 2013 | 09:00 AM
  #33  
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Lots of variables when it comes to estimating how much paint is needed. Solid colors usually cover better...yellow is a PITA and needs more paint to cover. That said, if you use a sealer that is a color close to the top color then coverage is much better. House of Kolor has some nice primer/sealers out now that can be mixed to create a color that matches your top coat. On this truck I used the red primer/sealer, KD3004, without mixing it with any other color.

In a BC/CC system, the basecoat (BC) usually covers very well. On this job I only used a quart for the whole cab and doors. If I had used a single stage enamel then a quart would not have covered that much area.
 
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Old Dec 4, 2013 | 09:10 AM
  #34  
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I'll be painting the truck turquoise. Since it's a solid color I haven't decided if i'll use single stage or BC/CC. What would you suggest?
 
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Old Dec 4, 2013 | 09:32 AM
  #35  
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It depends on your skill level. Single stage is relatively easy to shoot and if you use a gloss additive/hardener then you should be able to get a good shiny finish with it. With single stage you are stuck with whatever dust/nibs that in the finish until the paint cures. This may not be an issue for you but if you were doing a job for someone else they may not want to leave their truck with you for weeks.

I prefer BC/CC for a couple of reasons; the final finish is very high gloss and the base coat is very easy to work with. The basecoat dries fast, you can shoot a panel and if you find something that needs more work you can go ahead and fix it and then shoot it again without waiting days for the paint to dry. BC can be applied in sections and allowed to sit indefinitely while you are prepping other areas for paint. Many times I will paint the vehicle in sections with BC and then clear coat the vehicle all at one time at a later date. This adds another step to the process however, dried BC must be scuffed before top coating with clear. Maroon scotchbrite works great for this scuffing. Since urethanes are catalyzed, cure time is shorter. Two days after painting I am colorsanding...that is if the job requires it.

One word of caution on the BC...if you do not clear coat it right away then it is susceptible to damage if it comes in contact with reducer or even pre-wipe. Don't ask how I know this...
 
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Old Dec 4, 2013 | 09:37 AM
  #36  
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Thanks for your input! I appreciate it.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2014 | 07:57 PM
  #37  
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Charlie, did you spray your floor with epoxy primer before applying the cake batter mix?
 
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Old Feb 17, 2014 | 10:24 PM
  #38  
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The thermal coating is fairly easy to contain with just some paper masking, no need for extraordinary measures with the floor.

I just came in from the garage after painting some more panels for this truck...pics show up kinda orangey...the paint color is really bright red though.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2014 | 11:54 PM
  #39  
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Hey Charlie,
Looking good over there. That looks as orange as can be to me - I must be getting old eyes.. I wasn't brave enough to paint my own truck - you guys are awesome.

Ben in Austin
1950 F1
 
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Old Feb 18, 2014 | 02:15 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by CharlieLed
The thermal coating is fairly easy to contain with just some paper masking, no need for extraordinary measures with the floor.

I just came in from the garage after painting some more panels for this truck...pics show up kinda orangey...the paint color is really bright red though.
Sweeeeeet Great Job
 
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Old Feb 18, 2014 | 06:07 AM
  #41  
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That's very nice. I sure would have call that orange if you didn't mention it. Interesting what cameras do.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2014 | 07:59 AM
  #42  
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The guy who owns this truck told me that he wanted it painted the brightest red possible with no orange in it at all. This color is Euro Red from House of Kolor and is almost exactly the same as Ferrari red...I really need a better camera!
 
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Old Feb 18, 2014 | 08:30 AM
  #43  
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Charlie,

First off it looks GREAT! Secondly thanks for posting the lizard skin alternative. I have seen lots of guys talk about it but no one actually do it and post pics. It looks good!

Does it add a sound deadening affect? Will it accept automotive paint, or will the solvents disolve it?

I noticed Dynomat in the doors, how come you didn't use the lizardskin stuff there?

Also what are you using on the bottom of the cab, and under the fenders?
 
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Old Feb 18, 2014 | 09:27 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by CharlieLed
The guy who owns this truck told me that he wanted it painted the brightest red possible with no orange in it at all. This color is Euro Red from House of Kolor and is almost exactly the same as Ferrari red...I really need a better camera!
Chuck, it's showing up orange because the camera is not taking into account for shooting in florescent light. Not sure what your shooting with, but if you have a florescent WB setting the red will show up more true.

Or, you can just hold us in suspense until you get it outside.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2014 | 09:43 AM
  #45  
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Charlie, what kind of tape line do you get with the lizzard skin when you remove the tape?
 
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