I have a 2007 F150 with a 4.2 and standard transmission. I just replaced the battery because my old one was bad. The engine starts and idles fine when I first crank it up, but after I get down the road some and I need to stop, when I push the clutch in the engine doesn't know where to idle so it shuts off. If I'm still moving I can pop the clutch and it starts running again, but when I stop the engine shuts off again and it will start right back up and idle fine if I'm already stopped.
This has happened before when I had bought a new battery for it in the past or when I had a loose cable, but it fixed itself quickly so I figured it was just a computer relearn process. This time it has been doing it over a week and no sign of it learning where idle is any time soon.
Help please.

 

Any CEL showing?

You need to find a code reader and pull codes. This probably has to do with an idle control device or throttle body.

 

After posting the thread I cleaned my cables with baking soda and water then turned the truck on and let it idle for about 15 minutes with the A/C off, then another 15 minutes or so with the A/C on and it seems to have fixed my issue.
No DTCs were showing because the battery had been disconnected and everything had been erased. Thanks for the help

 

Henchman; just curious, how does yours shift? Mine is very 'sticky'/'draggy' between gears and generally very 'notchy' at the synchronizers. Feels like the clutch is dragging but it's not.

 

Mine shifts great and I'm not shy with it. It's only a v6 so there is only so much power to be expected. Maybe you are shifting too early? I usually shift at about 3k RPM. I don't really know what you mean by "notchy"? Does it seem like it has a hard time finding the gears? Is your shifter sloppy at all? I had an issue with that and fixed it.

 

No, the shifter is hard to move between gears most of the time, and sometimes it takes double-clutching to get into gear. It's like there's no oil in the box, but I have confirmed it is full. Like the clutch is not fully releasing, but it is. I put it in 1st and kept the clutch pedal down and there was no creeping forward or resistance to rolling back. This is further proved by the fact that the clutch doesn't engage until the pedal is about halfway up, so there's got to be plenty of clearance with the pedal down. I'm going to change the gearbox oil soon but I have no reason to believe it'll make any difference. I've had a number of manual trans over the years but have never run into this before.
If I had to put it in a nutshell, it's like trying to shift with the clutch partially engaged.
The truck only has 13,200 mi. and I bought it new. I guess I'll have to take it to Ford and have them check out the hydraulic clutch operation.

 

Hey, I did a quick search and it sure sounds like the hydraulic system needs bleeding. That's evidently my next move - I have to do something PDQ.

 

Yeah, it does kinda sound like that may be the case. In this truck and a previous ('03 Ranger) truck I had issues with the slave cylinder going out after about 3 years. Try bleeding the system first. If that doesn't help or you can't get the air out, you may suspect the slave cylinder next.

 

BTW, glad you found the problem with your cables. You might consider treating the battery ends of the cables and the terminals with CorrosionX to prevent that.

 

Another trick I learned for that is to super glue an old (real copper) penny 1/8" from each battery post.