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i have a 95 f150 5.8 E40d im intrested in buying a performance chip
to get rid of the speed governor and get some more power..
would that be the best way to do it or is there a way i can tune my eec?
The speed governor is there for a reason...and it's set high enough that you should never hit it.
As for more power, get a set of long tube headers and a decent exhaust system. Advance your timing a few degrees and do a decent tune up. A "chip" won't do anything for you besides bump your timing.
If it's the rev limiter, go for it. It's your truck, after all, but I can say right now you won't find any more power by revving that 351 higher. Not on stock heads, cam, and intake anyway.
If you mean the top speed governor, why would you want to drive your truck faster than that? Even the first gen (OBS) Lightning was limited to 110. It's there for a reason. Are your tires rated for the speeds you plan on driving?
I dunno where you are but here in FL if you are doing 30+ over the limit, it's a mandatory court sentence so you can explain to the judge why you were in such a hurry.
As for a chip, well you can get a chip made... OR buy a Moates QuarterHorse and tune it yourself.
as for a "chip" for gassers they are rather useless, Ive tested a few that claimed to "improve power and gase MPG" and all they really are, are wallett byopsy devices, Diesels are a different story, I don't have a diesel so I can't really say for sure if they would help there or not.
I agree with the above posts too, those are the best ways for a bit better performance, also the govener is there for a reason please for the safety of you and everyone on the road don't mess with it!!! if you must, please do it safely or have it done by a professional!
- Get the truck to the operating temp, then kill the engine.
- With the engine off, disconnect the SPOUT.
- Turn the engine on and with the regular timing procedure, set the timing to 12-14° BTDC, backing down if you hear any pinging, to advance the time turn the distributor CW (Clock Wise).
- Turn the engine off and reconnect the SPOUT.
- Send MORE beer this way.
Of course, before advancing the timing it's recommended you do a full tune-up, with new sparkplugs (gapped to 0.055)/cables, coil, rotor and cap, and any other part you decide to throw in it.
thanks for all the info and advice ....im trying to make make my truck faster down the track in a safer
environment than the freeway.im going to do alot of bolt on upgrades maybe cam and heads...does anybody know of any good ratchet shifter for e40d or would a universal B&M one work?
Recently did Tune-Up. Trucks at 274k miles on original motor still running strong...Change the oil every 3k miles using Vavaline synthetic since it was new off the parking lot back in 1992. Although I'll probably need need to check the slack in the timing chain its got about 140k miles on it since its been changed...Ill take the cap off and turn the crank back and fourth and see what I get before I mess with advancing the timing. Thanks for the information. Learn something new every day about our old trucks
If you get the pattern right, you can use any shifter you want EXCEPT ones made for GM transmissions with the long throw between park and reverse. Unless you changed it, you'll need one for a forward pattern valve body. A shifter made for a later C6 would work. Actually one made for any C6 would work, but the first C6's had a PRN2D1 pattern so the markings on a shifter for those wouldn't line up with the later C6/E4OD pattern.
You'll have to buy a handle with a momentary pushbutton, or install a momentary pushbutton somewhere else, if you want to keep the O/D lockout function.
thanks for all the info and advice ....im trying to make make my truck faster down the track in a safer
environment than the freeway.im going to do alot of bolt on upgrades maybe cam and heads...does anybody know of any good ratchet shifter for e40d or would a universal B&M one work?
I haven't seen one that is specific to a truck with an E4OD. You may want to look into buying tuning software and tuning it yourself if you have bigger plans down the road. Aside from changing fueling and timing, there are functions in the transmission that can be tuned to allow it to perform better. You can raise shift points, change the converter lock-up scheduling, and raise the throttle valve pressure to firm up the shifts. You can also disable the tip-in-timing retard which is another benefit.
thanks for all the info and advice ....im trying to make make my truck faster down the track in a safer
environment than the freeway.im going to do alot of bolt on upgrades maybe cam and heads...does anybody know of any good ratchet shifter for e40d or would a universal B&M one work?
...On my 95 with a 4R70W i used the B&M prostick , its a gate shifter , i like them better than the ratchet shifters , i just moved the OD switch from the end of the column to the dash....
I haven't seen one that is specific to a truck with an E4OD.
I had a <a href=http://hurst-shifters.com/?page_id=131&pn=3838510&mk=&yr=&md=&sm=&e=>Hurst ProMatic 2</a href> in my F-250 but it fell apart. Stock shifter broke and I had the Hurst laying around from my old Thunderbird. It wasn't the truck version though.
I read the original ProMatic is good. My buddy said to me once, never buy the "2" version of anything lol.
But yeah Hurst and B&M both make truck shifters, which is just their usual product with an extended lever and you just buy a different **** from them. Both companies sell ***** and t-handles with momentary buttons for controlling whatever you want like roll control, nitrous, or overdrive in your case.
- Get the truck to the operating temp, then kill the engine.
- With the engine off, disconnect the SPOUT.
- Turn the engine on and with the regular timing procedure, set the timing to 12-14° BTDC, backing down if you hear any pinging, to advance the time turn the distributor CW (Clock Wise).
- Turn the engine off and reconnect the SPOUT.
- Send MORE beer this way.
Of course, before advancing the timing it's recommended you do a full tune-up, with new sparkplugs (gapped to 0.055)/cables, coil, rotor and cap, and any other part you decide to throw in it.
Here is a video on Youtube I found. May help if you are curious on how to advance the timing.