So I am installing my new IP/Injectors/return lines in my '88 E250 tomorrow. Doesn't look too bad. Any specific tips or tricks I should know about? Anything special to look out for?

I've done a bit of wrenching, but this is my first diesel IP job. Thanks

 

Nothing really special to know.

Open the hood as high as it will go (it can go alot higher than with the little rod), take the passenger seat out, and the doghouse.


Get the air cleaner off, then you'll need to remove the 2 little bolts holding the high idle solenoid to the IP (you'll need to remove this to gain access to the passenger side nut holding the IP to the gear cover with a shaved down, angled 9/16 wrench.

The 2 other bolts are fairly easy to get at. Prepare a magnet and little mechanics mirror though, you most likely will end up needing them.



Remove all IP hard lines at the injectors, then you'll have to remove all the ones you can get at right at the IP, to be able to back out the IP far enough to lift it up and out.

You won't be able to get to the 2 bottom lines, but those can come out with the IP still attached (just be sure to have them put on tight before putting the new IP in it's spot.


Also with the 3 little nuts holding the IP from the back, you have to remove that little cover on the front of the gear cover (just below the oil fill) to get access to remove the 3 little screws holding the IP to the gear.



And then for your injectors, spray lots of WD 40 or a good penetrant around the treads, and work 'em out. Be sure to blow air first before doign anything so no crap falls in the holes.

When the injectors come out, be sure the little copper ring is still on them.


This is also a good time to replace all 8 glow plugs since you'll never have any easier access to them than this....

 

it is possible to remove the IP with all the lines still attached, if that better suits your goals. you'll just need to lower the radiator by about an inch to do it this way.
but if you're removing it, i suspect you're either replacing it or having it rebuilt, so leaving the lines on would be no advantage to you.

as you've probably read on here about 50 times, don't remove the gear housing unless you want a real fight getting the gear timed properly.

 

Remove the whole thing from the Doghouse side, lines and all.... leave the IP gear cover on engine... I just did a van a couple weeks ago.

 

Thanks for the help guys. I will let you know how it turns out.

 

Okay, so the IP is out, all the injectors are replaced. Looked like at least one was leaking...the bottom had a good size fuel droplet on it. New return line kit is installed. Next is the part I am dreading...putting the new pump in. The old one was a pain to get out through the doghouse.

I do have a question. I know some people leave the injector caps loose until they get fuel to them and then tighten them down. I have an electric fuel pump, so is this necessary for me to do, or can I just let the pump run for a bit to get the fuel to the injectors prior to cranking? Also, where exactly is the timing mark on the new pump and housing? I have the timing tools coming, but I need to use these to get it running so I can time it to 7.5* BTDC. Hoping to have it running tonight or early tomorrow.

Thanks

 

for timing, it has a little tab next to the crank pulley, which you point a timing light at, just like on a gas motor. you get it close enough by lining up the marks on the gear housing and the IP - the marks are fight where the two mate, top center.

as for the injector lines, when i did mine i tightened them all down dry, and the engine came to life and the end of the second, 30-second round of cranking on it. thats no worse than a normal case of air intrusion without an e-pump.