IP Change Thread?
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Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 2,227
Likes: 149
From: Higginsville, MO
IP Change Thread?
do we have a thread that has all the steps and pics to swapping IP's? i may be doing mine tomorrow if i get in the truck and she still wants to be a turd tomorrow i'll probably put my new IP and injectors in. but i want to make sure its done right the first time and i have heard don't take the IP gear cover off it'll mess up the timing, then ive heard you have to take it off and remove the gear bolts.... thats the opposite of what i was told before (don't mess with the IP gear) so now im all confused and would like some pictures and step by step 
Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 2,227
Likes: 149
From: Higginsville, MO
i searched and got a bunch of threads where people asked the same question and got told to search... so i did search and got told to search and came up with nothing but hit and miss about don't mess with timing gear at all to.... you need to take the bolts out of the timing gear.... 2 completely different things.... this is not something i want to mess up because if i take it apart tomorrow i need it back together by tomorrow night... can't afford to mess anything up
Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 3,493
Likes: 3
From: NY
1. First disconnect all 8 steel fuel lines from injectors. Then disconnect the IP steel feed line.
2. Remove all electrical connections and cold fast idle solenoid from IP. Remove accelerator cable and remove the accelerator bracket that bolts to the intake manifold. This will make the removal much easier!
3. Remove the 2 bolts holding the cover on located directly under the oil fill tube. Remove cover. This cover you are removing is not the timing gear inspection cover, it's the IP drive cover that you must remove in order to replace your IP.
4. Remove the 3 5/16 12 point bolts behind the inspection cover you removed. You will need a 12 pt. 5/16 deep socket for this step.
5. Remove the 3 IP mounting bolts.
6. Remove IP from engine and swap the injector lines over to the new pump. Be sure to tighten these lines very tight, they will leak if you don't. Do not swap the fast idle seleniod yet as this will make the installation difficult. Swap over any other parts you see on your old ip that the new one doesn't have(parts vary depending on your transmission). If you have a turbo, now is the time to adjust the fuel screw.
7. Installation is the opposite of removal.
Yes I just typed that up.
2. Remove all electrical connections and cold fast idle solenoid from IP. Remove accelerator cable and remove the accelerator bracket that bolts to the intake manifold. This will make the removal much easier!
3. Remove the 2 bolts holding the cover on located directly under the oil fill tube. Remove cover. This cover you are removing is not the timing gear inspection cover, it's the IP drive cover that you must remove in order to replace your IP.
4. Remove the 3 5/16 12 point bolts behind the inspection cover you removed. You will need a 12 pt. 5/16 deep socket for this step.
5. Remove the 3 IP mounting bolts.
6. Remove IP from engine and swap the injector lines over to the new pump. Be sure to tighten these lines very tight, they will leak if you don't. Do not swap the fast idle seleniod yet as this will make the installation difficult. Swap over any other parts you see on your old ip that the new one doesn't have(parts vary depending on your transmission). If you have a turbo, now is the time to adjust the fuel screw.
7. Installation is the opposite of removal.
Yes I just typed that up.
Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 2,227
Likes: 149
From: Higginsville, MO
well at least now we have a thread with it step by step.... in an organized manner.
when i take the gear cover off and remove the 3 5/16 12 pointers is there any chance that gear can come unmeshed? or is there something else holding it in place?
when i take the gear cover off and remove the 3 5/16 12 pointers is there any chance that gear can come unmeshed? or is there something else holding it in place?
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 5,097
Likes: 1,503
From: western SD
Ha the search function kinda sucks if you ask me. To change out the IP--DO NOT REMOVE THE TIMING GEAR COVER. Start by removing the two bolts that hold the oval cover on the front of the timing gear housing. Under the cover you will be able to locate the three 12 point 5/16 headed bolts that hold the timing gear to the IP. remove those 3 bolts. The IP is held on to the timing gear cover with 3 9/16 sized nuts, remove those. If your truck is NA, remove the injector lines from the injectors an remove the IP and lines as a unit. If you have a turbo the lines have to come off the pump befor you can lift out the IP. Install the new IP in the reverse order.
Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 3,493
Likes: 3
From: NY
No dude, just remove the bolts. I know that thread awhile back scared us all but he was doing something different. Nothing will happen when you remove the ip from the gears as long as you don't take that giant shroud off the timing gears.
Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 2,227
Likes: 149
From: Higginsville, MO
ok sounds good.... if i wind up doing it im going to take some pictures and post them up so we have some concrete photos and such to go along with this
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Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2010
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From: NY
Once you do it, you realize it's not that hard at all. Can be done in a evening if you have all the tools.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 3,493
Likes: 3
From: NY
Thats heat shield. the turbo practically sits on top of the throttle line so to protect the cable, I had to wrap it in that heat shield. I also like to clean out the valley so any little leak after the install I will immediately see. The third pic is where the IP mounts into timing gears(facing the grille).
Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 3,493
Likes: 3
From: NY
Yes they are. I forgot to mention that you should go pick up a cheap (not weak but rather inexpensive) 9/16 combination wrench(12 point on closed side). Then grind down the closed end side until it fits between the IP housing and nut head. Then you can then shorten the wrench by just chopping of the open side. those bolts will come out much easier if you do that.
Mountain Pass
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 147
Likes: 0
oilburners has a good walkthrough w pics. i had to get a 12pt socket my 7.3 has a oilspout in the way to use a wrench on. pulling that tomorow.
TikiWiki : IDI Fuel Injection Servicing
TikiWiki : IDI Fuel Injection Servicing
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,389
Likes: 0
From: Massachusetts
It's a job I've done at 11 PM on a Tuesday night, and got it back together to use the truck the next day at 6 AM. Only takes 1 hour if you know what you're doing, have done it a few too many times, and have spare parts on hand 
I've pulled and install an IP at least 4 times....and I've NEVER had ANY luck installing the steel injector lines with the IP out of the truck ans getting them to line up pretty well at the injectors.
I find it easier to pull all the lines off, wipe 'em off with a rag, then spray with brake parts cleaner, prime them, and spray paint your favorite color. Then you can continue to pull the IP by itself, then install the next IP. By this point, your lines will still be tacky, but you can install them. Start with the lowest ones on the IP and work up.
X2 on the ground-down 9/16" wrench for those IP nuts, but also do the same with a 5/8" wrench so you can tighten those steel lines!
I've pulled and install an IP at least 4 times....and I've NEVER had ANY luck installing the steel injector lines with the IP out of the truck ans getting them to line up pretty well at the injectors.
I find it easier to pull all the lines off, wipe 'em off with a rag, then spray with brake parts cleaner, prime them, and spray paint your favorite color. Then you can continue to pull the IP by itself, then install the next IP. By this point, your lines will still be tacky, but you can install them. Start with the lowest ones on the IP and work up.
X2 on the ground-down 9/16" wrench for those IP nuts, but also do the same with a 5/8" wrench so you can tighten those steel lines!