Replacind power door lock actuator
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From: Roseville, MN
Replacind power door lock actuator
The passenger rear door lock actuator in my '97 crew cab has been screaming at me whenever I'd unlock the doors with the power switch (quiet when locking/unlocking that door manually). So tonight I pulled the actuator out. Now I've got some questions about putting it back in.
The actuator was riveted in, so I drilled the rivet out. I was figuring I'd use a 1/4" bolt to put it back in. But now I'm wondering if that's the right plan. The actuator swings freely in the mount, to keep the linkage from binding up I'm sure. Does it need to be able to pivot on the mounting bolt/rivet as well? Or is it OK if it's held tight in that direction?
Also there was a pretty badly torn rubber boot over the top of the motor. I tore it worse getting it pulled back so i could grease the shaft where it comes out of the motor. With the grease it runs qiuetly now, but I'm pretty sure it'll get washed without the boot intact (that's probably why it was screaming to begin with). Does anyone have any clever ideas how to replace the boot? Or am I better off just getting a new motor? (hate to do that now that I have this one running quietly).
The actuator was riveted in, so I drilled the rivet out. I was figuring I'd use a 1/4" bolt to put it back in. But now I'm wondering if that's the right plan. The actuator swings freely in the mount, to keep the linkage from binding up I'm sure. Does it need to be able to pivot on the mounting bolt/rivet as well? Or is it OK if it's held tight in that direction?
Also there was a pretty badly torn rubber boot over the top of the motor. I tore it worse getting it pulled back so i could grease the shaft where it comes out of the motor. With the grease it runs qiuetly now, but I'm pretty sure it'll get washed without the boot intact (that's probably why it was screaming to begin with). Does anyone have any clever ideas how to replace the boot? Or am I better off just getting a new motor? (hate to do that now that I have this one running quietly).
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Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2013
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From: Roseville, MN
Thanks jas88, I did end up bolting it back in. I eventually realized that the piece that actually rivets / bolts to the door can spin in the plastic yoke, so the motor assembly can still twist around that axis to line itself up even if it is bolted down tight.
Also I made a new boot for it from a bicycle inner tube. I used a 26x1.75-2.35 tube because I had one for a kids bike that we already sold, but it ended up being about the perfect size. I used a zip tie to cinch it tight to the link that goes up to the lock and it fits just slightly loosely over the motor. Below is a picture showing it in the door. I probably could have used some silicone at the top to seal it up better, but it turned out I didn't get the motor quiet, but it still works so I'm thinking I'll leave it there until it quits working given it's not an essential and a new motor costs about $100.
Edit: Oh, and turn the tube inside out so you don't get all the white dust (talc?) that's inside an inner tube all over everything
Also I made a new boot for it from a bicycle inner tube. I used a 26x1.75-2.35 tube because I had one for a kids bike that we already sold, but it ended up being about the perfect size. I used a zip tie to cinch it tight to the link that goes up to the lock and it fits just slightly loosely over the motor. Below is a picture showing it in the door. I probably could have used some silicone at the top to seal it up better, but it turned out I didn't get the motor quiet, but it still works so I'm thinking I'll leave it there until it quits working given it's not an essential and a new motor costs about $100.
Edit: Oh, and turn the tube inside out so you don't get all the white dust (talc?) that's inside an inner tube all over everything
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