Ok, my truck has been trouble free for a few years now. Until, I ran out of gas the other day.
I was forced to crank it over for a long time trying to start it and had to stop due to smoke coming from the solenoid. I let it cool down and it did start and got me home.
Next time I tried to start it the starter stayed engaged and kept turning over even when I turned the key back. I had to quickly pop the hood and pull the batt cable off.
The side of the solenoid with the starter cable and power wires was fried and wires melted from when it burnt so, I replaced the solenoid, and the melted wires as well as new fuseable links.
New solenoid is getting power and I can get it to turn over by jumping across the terminals but still no start from key.
I tested the red/blue start wire and there is no power to it with the key on.
This would lead me to believe it's the ignition switch causing all the problems.
I am going to replace it today after work but what has me worried is there is no dome light or horn or lights when I pull switch.
Lights etc should not be affected by a bad ignition switch or am I wrong??
Is there another fuseable link other than near the solenoid?
No blown fuses that I can see.
Where else should I look?
Anyone familiar with this problem?
any help is appreciated
thanks
Oh ya it's a 1980 F100

 

i've seen this exact problem happen when a starter solenoid has the wires installed in the wrong order. one large post must have ONLY the wire to the starter, and the other large post must have the wire from the battery and ALL other wires that ran up there.

once you're sure its right (i suspect its wrong), and you still have a problem, then you can start troubleshooting fusible links if necessary.

 

Had the same issue ( no start with key/ no lights etc.) on my '84 when a large plug-in connector on the passenger side inner fender got corroded and one of the spades was eaten away. It was the spade connector for a large yellow wire. Found the problem by checking wires on both sides of the connector with a voltmeter.

 

The red/blue wire gets power in START and at no other times.

 

Thanks for the replys.
Josh nailed it. Rookie mistake. I guess I was in too much of a hurry and had the solenoid wired backwards.
So now I have power again and when I tried to start it again the starter still wouldn't disengage, even when I pulled the red/blue wire off.
So now back to troubleshooting the starter.
I've replaced the solenoid and ignition switch so it can be either of those.
Can the relay on the starter itself cause this problem?

 

ive had identicall issues with mine i went through 4 before i figured it out, one is putting the solenoid on so that the 5/16 lugs on the top instead of the bottom, and running a ground wire to the solenoid bracket helped as well. mine still has issues engaging sometimes but a little tap fixes it every time but atleast it doesn't stick on a closed circuit anymore.

 

I just went through these problems a few weeks ago.
fried solenoid, no start, brand new one got stuck in CRANK mode, replaced again and then only 10V to crank terminal and no starter engagement unless jumpered

I ended up replacing ignition switch (didn't change anything but at least it isn't sticking anymore) Replaced all cables because they got super hot trying to jumper the starter. And replaced the starter.

After all is said and done, I think the starter was probably the problem from the onset. Too much draw or whatever and it cost me a few solenoids and suspect cables. I'm not too upset about throwing parts at it because now it's set for the forseeable future. A reman starter was only $35.

Your new solenoid probably got stuck in CRANK mode. You can try whacking it with a wrench to see if it unsticks. Cranking for a long time could have damaged the starter.

 

I keep seeing this repeated.

My tuck has had one "extra" wire to the starter terminal since I got it. It was there when I took a pic before replacing the solenoid, and it has a tag on it that says NEG TERM.

So I guess I'm confused.

 

thats a classic case of a defective brand new solenoid. i've seen people go through 4 or 5 junk new ones without getting more than 5 starts out of any one. when this happens, i go to my local junkyard and pick up a good ford original, and the problem is solved.


lufafisk, i suspect the wire you have on there is some aftermarket item, and shouldn't be wired as it is. i suggest you try to identify what the wire belongs to, and decide what to do from there - its likely supposed to be a ground for something

 

I agree with Josh entirely! reps for that post The solenoid is the on/off switch for the starter, and replacing the starter to fix this problem is like replacing the light bulb (in the house) when the wall switch is acting up.

Starter motors are designed to operate in short bursts with time to cool before operating again. Running one continuously for greater than 30-40 seconds will burn it out prematurely.

More here:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-problems.html

 

Yes the OP's main problem right now is the solenoid. But a starter isn't a simple resistor like a light bulb.

Might be worth pulling the starter and having it tested. Especially since he cranked it 'til it got so hot it stopped working. If the current draw is high, I could see that contributing to welding the new solenoid closed.

 

Yeah I thought about that yesterday after posting. If the tag says NEG TERM it definitely shouldn't be there. I need to track that down.

I did remove some shoddy trailer wiring that was connected to the battery side of the terminal. And some other stuff that was hanging around by the center fuel tank. My guess is it has something to do with that.

That hack wiring could have been the issue causing the solenoid to go, and I only removed half of the problem. It's working, but for how long?

 

Ill attest too the multiple defective solenoids im on 4 and its still acting up but atleast it sticks open not closed like the first three. And I think the oem starters the best advice ive heared, just get 2 while your there.