Test light on door lock switch
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2010
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From: Ringgold, Ga
Test light on door lock switch
Ok all fuses passed with light test. Unplugged drivers side power lock plug. Tested door plug and light will barely glow. Something clicks under dash win making connection.
So is the dimness normal since the whole loop is broke?? I now from the past that none of the locks work if 1 switch is disconnected.
So is the dimness normal since the whole loop is broke?? I now from the past that none of the locks work if 1 switch is disconnected.
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2010
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From: Longview, TX
Can you back up and explain why you are testing the door lock? Obviously I know it's not working and you are assuming its a power issue. What is it doing? No power at all, or weak? And is this behavior in one or both switches? Also, what year is your truck, and is it 2 door or crewcab?
Just trying to understand the issue before we go chasing rabbits.
Just trying to understand the issue before we go chasing rabbits.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2010
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From: Ringgold, Ga
Look at my waterpump post below. CC 2000, have done foil fix on all 4 doors. Mech must of hammered a switch.
Clicks under dash but no movement at all in the doors. Nothing works except using the key or my fingers. Worked like a champ thurs win I dropped it off. Key FOB turns on dome but no locks move.
Clicks under dash but no movement at all in the doors. Nothing works except using the key or my fingers. Worked like a champ thurs win I dropped it off. Key FOB turns on dome but no locks move.
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2010
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From: Longview, TX
Well I'd say if it's clicking, then the fuse and the relay are working. I guess since the test light is dim, you could test with a meter to see what voltage is there. I don't have the wiring diagram for a 2000 unfortunately or I'd give you the pinout.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2010
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Is that factory RKE or aftermarket as it depends on how the lock is wired. With all the rain the last week, is there a leak in the windshield? Trucks w/ Factory RKE depends heavily on the GEM to work the locks.
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2010
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From: Longview, TX
Very valid point. All the locks work through the GEM, which is known to do all sorts of weird things. That could actually be where the click is coming from. It could also explain the dim test light.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2010
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You need to find the three relays that control the locks. I am not sure where they are but they are dependent upon each other. If one messes up, the whole system will screw up. What i can understand of the schematic is that the relays switch the ground on a truck with factory RKE along with the GEM inputs.
Test the relays and their connections. Swap them around. See if anything changes. It may be something simple
Test the relays and their connections. Swap them around. See if anything changes. It may be something simple
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2010
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From: Ringgold, Ga
Found the Relays behind the radio. Remove it and there on the firewall under a cover. Gotta remove cup holder and lower dash. Ran out of time tonite but that's where they are.
Anyone know how to test 5 pin relay besides swapping them with another?
Anyone know how to test 5 pin relay besides swapping them with another?
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2010
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86 & 86 are the coil. Should have continuity with some resistance b/c of coil. 87a and 30 should have continuity with little resistance when holding in hand. If u power 85 and ground 86, 87 should then have continuity with little resistance to term 30.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2010
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From: Ringgold, Ga
Tested relays and they passed. If ya ever need to get to those behind radio, just remove upper and lower dash panels.
Next step is replace actuators. Prob gonna try the universal type. Will post how they do.
Next step is replace actuators. Prob gonna try the universal type. Will post how they do.
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