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Yeah, I know, wrong place for this one, but too many 'opinions' on some of this sites other forums.
I've just done a search here and have found AT LEAST 3 (or more)different rear caliper bracket torque figures ranging from a top number of 203#, 150# and down as low as 128# and all for a 2006 and up F350.
A bit of background - coming home yesterday, pulled into a rest area and a gentleman pulled in next to me and said I had a smoking RR brake. Made it home safely after a cooldown and then went to work. Yep, the dreaded sticking slide pin syndrome, even with enough grease. They had some gouges and evidently stuck so off to NAPA and $67 bucks for a caliper and one of my good but used rotors along with a quart of fresh brake fluid later later ............ going back together
same as the above post, use a 1/2 driver and tighten till tight. Have never used a torque wrench on these bolts on any vehicle. most head bolts are not set to the numbers you show above so dont know where you found those. go to one of the ace hardwares and they have a small pocket book that will give torque numbers based on the bolt/thread size and that is where you will be the safest. dont think that the bolts in question are more than 10-12 mm in diameter so somewheres around 100lbft should be in the ball park. We used to torque lugnuts on cars with disc brakes to around 80lbft when they first came out to limit rotor warp, but that was many years ago, now they just run them down with air wrenches and many are set to around 200+
Guys - I ended up using an 'arbitrary' torque number as those bolts appear to be about the same diameter as the lug nuts and the lugs are 165 lb ft, s-o-o-o-o!! In comparison, way back in the dark ages we used to do yearly valve jobs on 6 cylinder Chebbies, and I would swear that we used to tighten the head bolts down 'til they squeaked, then we gave 'em another yank on the big old 18" breaker bar