Choke cable questions
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2012
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From: Corvallis, OR
Choke cable questions
So I tugged on the choke a little too hard and this happened: Choke+Trailer - Imgur
I'm not quite sure what to do, I can't push it back in, and don't know how to reconnect it.
Also is the reservoir with the lid off for the washer spray?
Also threw in some pictures of the new stereo and the bumper realigned so my hitch fits.
I'm not quite sure what to do, I can't push it back in, and don't know how to reconnect it.
Also is the reservoir with the lid off for the washer spray?
Also threw in some pictures of the new stereo and the bumper realigned so my hitch fits.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
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From: NorCal
So I tugged on the choke a little too hard and this happened: Choke+Trailer - Imgur
I'm not quite sure what to do, I can't push it back in, and don't know how to reconnect it.
Also is the reservoir with the lid off for the washer spray?
Also threw in some pictures of the new stereo and the bumper realigned so my hitch fits.
I'm not quite sure what to do, I can't push it back in, and don't know how to reconnect it.
Also is the reservoir with the lid off for the washer spray?
Also threw in some pictures of the new stereo and the bumper realigned so my hitch fits.
Snap the lid back on the reservoir.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 18,488
Likes: 22
From: The Big, Oregon
There isn't anything special about it, it just goes from the **** to the carb, follow the cable for the routing.
Since the sheath is a spirally wound wire, the tip of the cable might be dug in against the inside of the sheath jamming it. Try pushing in gently while twisting the ****, it may pop free.
Since the sheath is a spirally wound wire, the tip of the cable might be dug in against the inside of the sheath jamming it. Try pushing in gently while twisting the ****, it may pop free.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 4,651
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From: Hemet ca.
here's what it looks like now. Notice the clamp, also the way the cable is tied up?
From this picture it doesn't look like the "Sheathing" was long enough to be clamped like it was suppose to be.
The cable appears to be to long and has a nasty bend in it.
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From this picture it doesn't look like the "Sheathing" was long enough to be clamped like it was suppose to be.
The cable appears to be to long and has a nasty bend in it.
View full resolution
Download full resolution
Last edited by gangstakr; Aug 1, 2013 at 09:38 PM. Reason: adding information
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
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From: Simi Valley, CA
So I tugged on the choke a little too hard and this happened: Choke+Trailer - Imgur
I'm not quite sure what to do, I can't push it back in, and don't know how to reconnect it.
The reservoir with the lid is D1TZ-17618-A .. Windshield Washer - 1971/79 F100/350 - 1978/79 Bronco
I'm not quite sure what to do, I can't push it back in, and don't know how to reconnect it.
The reservoir with the lid is D1TZ-17618-A .. Windshield Washer - 1971/79 F100/350 - 1978/79 Bronco
The cable has been swapped in from lawd only knows what, and how the heck you hook it up to an automatic choke, I dunno.
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Senior User
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From: Corvallis, OR
The choke cable isn't original as 1970/72's came with automatic chokes....which is clearly shown in your carb picture. Automatic chokes do not use a cable.
The cable has been swapped in from lawd only knows what, and how the heck you hook it up to an automatic choke, I dunno.
The cable has been swapped in from lawd only knows what, and how the heck you hook it up to an automatic choke, I dunno.
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Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Simi Valley, CA
Why did someone swap in a choke cable? Something happened to the automatic choke, couldn't find the parts to fix it.
The 3 usual causes why it fails:
1) Inside the black cover (9848) on the choke is a coil spring, it snaps, choke no longer works.
If original to the D2TF-AB carb, it's marked TB5 = Ford part number: D1AZ-9848-C (Motorcraft CM-1456).
2) Choke housing (9A575) is pot metal, contains a saucer plug that falls out, cannot be bought by itself, so choke no longer works. D2TZ-9A575-D (Motorcraft CC-66).
3) Between the choke housing and the carb is the nylon fast idle cam (9F577). Originally white, it turns yellow with age, cracks apart: C4AZ-9F577-B (Motorcraft CM-492)
Parts are obsolete from Ford, can be bought at autoparts stores, also available NOS / Fast idle cam same 1964/74 all Auto-Lite/Motorcraft 2100 series 2V carbs w/automatic chokes.
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Ford Parts Specialist
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From: Simi Valley, CA
Pic shows switch located in hole to left of 4 way flasher switch that all 1970/72 F100/350's came with. Lighter (if so equipped) is located to the right of the emergency flasher switch.
Ford Parts Specialist
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From: Simi Valley, CA
The cargo lamp itself is the same as 1964/65 Thunderbird back up lamp.
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Simi Valley, CA
working and do I need that wire anymore?The choke cable was swapped in because the automatic choke no longer worked. The person that did it...either didn't know how to fix the automatic choke or couldn't find the parts.
Post #8: I posted the Ford truck parts catalog pic of the carburetor, listed the three parts of the automatic choke: 9848 choke cover (round BLACK plastic), 9A575 housing, 9F577 fast idle cam, that usually fail.
Edit: The choke has been disconnected, note the tube that's part of the black choke cover. The thermostatic heat tube is missing that connects to the tube.
Heat tube consists of a copper line w/white nylon cover, nuts and ferrules...routes from exhaust manifold to choke cover.
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