I made a decision to convert the choke on my 1986 F150 [Carter YF] to manual and found an easy way for the installation.

The conversion kits are equipped with all the necessary hardware including the cable and mounting pieces, but on the 4.9L/300 engines, it is difficult to determine where to mount the bracket which stabilizes the cable on the carburetor end. If one mounts it using the carburetor hold-down bolt, then the cable is way too far forward of the choke mechanism. If the bracket is mounted to firewall, as suggested in the instructions, it is too far to the rear. If mounted using a manifold bolt, the bracket is way too low. One wants the cable to be as short as possible and to have as few bends as is practical, so the cable operates freely.

Here is what I did... I mounted the interior cable bracket under the dash just below where the computer used to be. There are two small phillips head screws which held the computer. I was able to use one for the L-shaped bracket and only had to drill (1) 1/16" hole for the second screw. [Be very careful when drilling with a 1/16" drill bit; any undue pressure and it will flex and quickly break - WEAR EYE PROTECTION!]. Route the cable through the opening previously occupied by the wiring harness going from the computer to the engine area. This is located very near where the accelerator cable passes through the firewall. I aligned the choke cable with the throttle cable [parallel] with the choke cable on top of the throttle cable. At a point approximately 12-15 inches from where both cables exited the firewall, I used a small plastic wire zip tie and proceeded to cinch the two cables together every two inches all the way toward the carburetor. At approximately 6 inches from where the accelerator cable is secured by the factory bracket, I used the final zip tie. This allowed the choke cable to make a gentle arc up to the modified choke arm.

All zip ties were snugged and neatly trimmed. I used black ones and the finished product looks quite neat. There is enough friction between the two cables to properly secure the choke cable with no movement.

It was very quick, works well and can easily be "undone".

 

Can't beat that!

 

Can you post pictures of the carb setup? I have an older 300 but would be interested in how to setup the bracket.

 

Ted, I wish I could, but do not have the capability. I tried to paint a picture using my words. Sorry!

The only bracket was the L-shaped one under the dash which holds the cable and **** used when setting the choke.

 

Gotcha. Thanks for the reply.

 

I spent some of the afternoon today making the conversion. Bought the kit last year, but I let it 'season' for 12mths.

I tried a few different methods of locating the damn L-bracket, but none worked well.

I just thought I'd try the forum hoping there was a thread about this subject.

Found one!

Thanks setting me on the right path. I've got beaucoup cable-ties.

Dave
Texas

 

Got it done. Unfortunately I discovered the cam-link is missing for the fast-idle system. Did a bunch of searching but no luck finding that piece. Don't need a new carb so I guess I'll not have an operable fast-idle.
If anyone has a 'fix' for that I'd appreciate it.

While on the LMC site I did see the air-duct to the carb is now available again. I'd looked for it a number of years, but it was never available.

 

i put a 2100 on my 300 a few weeks back- it required fabbing up a new choke cable. i did it el-cheapo, using about 8" of bar stock. bent it up in a vise, and bolted it down via one of the valve cover bolts.

i'll try to remember to take pics this weekend.

 

My other truck had a 2150 on it, so I am familiar with that, but I wanted to figure out a stock-ish manual choke for the YF. Still, post up the pictures. Everybody loves pictures

 

The conversion kits are available from HELP! (pt #55101) Instructions come with all the pictures needed. Most parts houses have a HELP! section. I've installed 3 of these kits now. Prior to this latest kit was on my '65 Galaxie 500 that I traded-in for my new '81 F100. Installation on a V-8 is simple due to the manifold and carb being in line. The idea of using cable-ties on the throttle-cable works great for the 300-6 carb.

 

pics...

i haven't decided if its "ghetto-fabulous", or just "ghetto"...but its getting the job done. you're looking at about $5 worth of stuff.

Lokar throttle linkage on left, manual choke on right.


close-up of the homemade bracket.

 

Looks good to me!

(btw: I traded in my '65 Galaxie 500 for my new 1981 F100. Loved the car but the low roof hurt my neck)

 

Did you have much trouble with getting the 2100 on there?? was it a worthwhile mod? did your mileage suffer or stay the same?

 

the truck is currently off the road for major repairs, so I don't have the answers for mileage or whether or not it was worthwhile yet.

but- it wasn't too much trouble. the carb is sitting on a $20 Trans-dapt 2bbl-to-1bbl adapter. the Lokar throttle linkage/brackets give you a place to hook up the return springs, so that's easy. all i had to do was fab up the brackets in the pictures.

i put the EFI exhaust manifolds on at the same time- so i've got a place to hook up an O2 sensor. i picked up a $12 air/fuel ratio gauge from Jegs...i'm going to wire the O2 straight to the gauge, and tune the devil out of it.

 

ive got a pile of 2100 carbs sitting around... i dont really mind my YF (its recently rebuilt, and works top notch) but if there was more power/more mileage to be had, i'd persue it....

if got EFI manifolds as well( on my many EFI trucks) but my o2 sensor screws in downstream of the manifolds... like by the transmission...