need tips installing manual choke
#1
need tips installing manual choke
1980 f100 I-6.
1bbl stock carb. made the mistake of replacing it with a re-manufactured one instead of doing it myself. the auto choke sucked. took it apart, repaired as much as possible, and have battled it for 6 months now or more. I even fabricated new heat riser tubes from copper tubing, etc, etc, etc.
I'm putting on a manual choke somehow and have bought hte cable kit.
I need tips and/or pictures if you have any. Would like to know where you routed the cable, how you attached and adjusted, etc.
Thanks.
1bbl stock carb. made the mistake of replacing it with a re-manufactured one instead of doing it myself. the auto choke sucked. took it apart, repaired as much as possible, and have battled it for 6 months now or more. I even fabricated new heat riser tubes from copper tubing, etc, etc, etc.
I'm putting on a manual choke somehow and have bought hte cable kit.
I need tips and/or pictures if you have any. Would like to know where you routed the cable, how you attached and adjusted, etc.
Thanks.
#2
Try to run it as straight as you can.
Right side of steering wheel... attached to under dash,,, through firewall ....make sure enough slack to allow some movement.....and to the choke side of carb attaching outside of cable to mounting point on intake/carb whatever,
Did this Kit come with the carb linkage parts to hold the end of the cable?
Right side of steering wheel... attached to under dash,,, through firewall ....make sure enough slack to allow some movement.....and to the choke side of carb attaching outside of cable to mounting point on intake/carb whatever,
Did this Kit come with the carb linkage parts to hold the end of the cable?
#4
Yes, the fast idle will still work as well as the choke pull off feature. All you are doing is replacing the black round housing with the bi-metal spring, with a round black replacement housing that has a mechanical lever.
Like Dennis said, run the cable as straight as possible. I have run the manual chokes on many of my vehicles, and have always tried to snake the cable around over to the steering column where there is usually a big enough hole already to run the cable. This will work, but not very good. To do this you have to put several bends in the cable, and it can be very hard to get it set precisely.
What I have done lately is pick a spot on the firewall as close as I can to line up with the passenger side of the carb were the cable will mount. This is the hardest trickiest part, since you have to dodge wires, heater cores, and figure out were you are at by looking at both sides of the firewall.
After that, I mount the ****/bracket at a 45 degree angle facing the driver, under the dash, and then route the cable through the new hole. This puts one 1/4 bend in the cable, with maybe a little upward angle to the hole.
You will then find the cable is way too long. Go ahead and cut the cable, and then take some pliers and while holding the cable with another pair, unwind the wrap to expose the inside of the cable so it will mount and operate on the carb.
This very short cable with little bend works very well.
Like Dennis said, run the cable as straight as possible. I have run the manual chokes on many of my vehicles, and have always tried to snake the cable around over to the steering column where there is usually a big enough hole already to run the cable. This will work, but not very good. To do this you have to put several bends in the cable, and it can be very hard to get it set precisely.
What I have done lately is pick a spot on the firewall as close as I can to line up with the passenger side of the carb were the cable will mount. This is the hardest trickiest part, since you have to dodge wires, heater cores, and figure out were you are at by looking at both sides of the firewall.
After that, I mount the ****/bracket at a 45 degree angle facing the driver, under the dash, and then route the cable through the new hole. This puts one 1/4 bend in the cable, with maybe a little upward angle to the hole.
You will then find the cable is way too long. Go ahead and cut the cable, and then take some pliers and while holding the cable with another pair, unwind the wrap to expose the inside of the cable so it will mount and operate on the carb.
This very short cable with little bend works very well.
#5
No, mine didn't come with the linkage at all. Just a wire inside a coil with a handle on the wire. I'd prefer one that is made to fit the existing choke assembly.
Any ideas?
After I got to looking at it, it appears i'd almost HAVE to drill a hole and also fabricate some sort of way to make a connection to the choke/idle linkage.
Thanks.
Any ideas?
After I got to looking at it, it appears i'd almost HAVE to drill a hole and also fabricate some sort of way to make a connection to the choke/idle linkage.
Thanks.
#6
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