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I don't know, but I'd try cleaning both pieces, mixing up some JB Weld and putting the **** back on. Let it sit over the weekend and you'll probably be good for a while.
Dennis Carpenter has the **** for $6.00; looks like the knurled area on your cable is OK (they also have the cable and bezel assembly for $25.00). If your cable moves freely then a new **** or some epoxy/JB to old **** will be functional.
From what I know of these, it's a one piece unit. The JB weld might work for a minute but I'm sure you need a complete cable **** assembly. There easy to swap out. Disconnect from carb loosen clamp so the cable will slide out. From under dash on backside of cable use a 5/8 shorty wrench, loosen nut. Once nut is off the threads, pull cable through. Re-assemble in reverse order.
If you get a new choke cable and choke **** from DC, you will find that is slightly different than the original setup. The new **** has threads in it and you have to put threads on the end of the new choke cable to make it work. I have a tap and die set so it was no big deal for me. Had it all fixed up in no time, but I wasn't expecting to have to do all that to make it work. The instructions said to "take the cable to a local machine shop and have it machined to match the threads in the new ****" or something to that effect. I laughed when I read that. I think that is a bit more than the average person would expect to do to a "replacement" part.
Tractor supply sells a very small vice grip that has proven to be great **** replacements. Of course the larger sizes can be used for window and door handles if you are looking for a matching set. I prefer the chromed versions myself.
I was just going to mention what sgettin said. Hate to call people by their screen name, just sounds funny. Anyway, I did one for a guy and because of the knurled part of the shaft, I had to drill out the brass hole in the new **** just slightly. Set screw **** worked great. BUT, you have an offer of a new cable in one of the posts above.
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