ok - this is a very early stage question, but i'd like to starting planning ahead with the hopes of immortalizing my new truck. I've already started on the frame rustproofing - then the ZF5 swap comes next. my question pertains to the engine, though.

I found myself the crew cab I've been looking for a few weeks ago, but with more miles than i'd have liked (354k). the price was right, though, so I was able to convince my wife that the best plan was to keep my current truck (ECLB PSD), swap its engine (currently at 197k mi) into the crew cab if/when the crew cab engine dies and part out the rest of the ECLB.

so my question is: which engine would be a better candidate for a rebuild - the 197k mi engine or the 354k mi engine? in the short time I've had it, the 354k engine seems to run stronger and smoother than the 197k engine and i'm pretty sure it was better cared for (definitely for the first ~300k of its life).

plus the 197k engine had 2 bent turbo fins when I bought it, so it clearly swallowed something (or maybe 2 somethings).

i'm kind of leaning toward rebuilding the 197k engine, but if it has some cylinder wall scoring or the like, is that fixable? I've never rebuilt a diesel engine, but have done plenty of engine work in my day, so i'm confident I can get it done.

I wouldn't be going for huge power, but figure I might as well upgrade where I can afford while i'm at it. probably do stage II's, turbo, intercooler and HPOP if I can afford it. it seems those mods also require some base engine upgrades to support the higher power, right?

i'd also plan to do all new main, cam bearings and the like while i'm at it - unless the consensus is that this is not needed/a dumb idea...

definitely all new seals so that I can run the extended life coolant.

e-fuel will be done on the crew cab after the zf5 swap, so that'll be all ready and waiting for the new engine.

finally - where's a good place to get a rebuilt kit? does clay (Riffraff) carry them? and can you just use an SD rebuilt kit and essentially have an SD engine when you're done or is that not worth the hassle?

 

Worse case scenario with scored cylinders, if the machine shop can't bore them out within spec, you can get the engine re-sleeved!

 

yeah, I've always been leary of that process, but I guess its better than the alternative of scrapping the block...

any advice on where to get a good rebuild kit? Would international carry one?

 

If the compression on the 354k engine checks out then I would rebuild it and leave your current truck alone.

Pretty much everything else on the engine can be replaced. Just ask Fordman67! Hes got one on the stand.

 

International should have one.. I would have to look around though. I found something a while back that was very reasonably priced as I was going to put another rebuild on the list of "to-do's", but for the life of me I can't remember where I found the kit, LOL! I will keep searching...

As for re-sleeving, its very safe and very reliable! The same precision that goes into boring out cylinders, is the same standards for re-sleeving. Most of those 18 wheelers out there have been re-sleeved a few times over with the miles that get slammed. I have always liked the idea of this for a rebuild, as most of the coolant passages surrounding the cylinder can be examined easier and even cleared out (especially on the "less then well cared for" blocks), and you get a whole new wall of thickness that is extra security in mind. Most of these diesel engines are designed to be re-sleeved fairly easily, and you will see this when you pull the heads off, as compared to a gasser!

 

well, the 354k engine is in the truck that is going to survive (the crew cab). the extended cab is going to be parted out. that is one option, though - swapping the 197k engine into the crew cab as is and rebuilding the 354k engine. I am kind of leaning the other way, though - thinking the 197k engine needs it more and avoiding one engine swap.

well that's good to know - it would be nice to know the thickness of the cylinder walls on the rebuild - not knowing the maintenance on these engines by the POs, there could be some porosity just about ready to eat through the cylinder walls that you wouldn't know about until it were to happen - perhaps right after the rebuild, right?

 

You can do a sonic check to check the cylinder wall thickness. Just need to find a shop that has one, or buy one. I agree there is nothing wrong with sleeving a cylinder. Heck, I know of some racers with all 8 cylinders sleeved! Riffraff has a rebuild kit for not much over a grand. I know you can get pistons .020 over, but I haven't looked into a rebuild on these much so I don't know a lot more.

 

Srupid tablet

 

The riffraff kit is motorcraft ie ford.it is pretty complete but there things it does not come with.bearings for one are standard only. Undersize are available from ford but not in the kit. Lifters,cam,cam gears,hpop and anything for the heads but gaskets and seals are not included. I would build wichever is in need of rebuild. There is no sence in rebuilding something that does not need it.blowby,compression,leak down will tell the story.

 

i agree. provided something major on the 350k mi engine currently in the crew cab doesnt force my hand prior, the plan would be to give the 197k engine in the parts truck a complete once over, checking compression, looking for exhaust leaks, etc. if it checks out OK, it'll get a nice sprucing up (rebuilt turbo, new HPOP, injectors, etc)

and go in to the 'new' truck more-or-less as is.

 

Do a compression test and then decide. I think you will just be wasting your time/money rebuilding either of them if they both have good compression.

You will be VERY, VERY surprised at what you will find when you pull apart the 350K motor. there will prolly still be cross-hatch marks on the cylinder walls. There are very few PSD's with a bad bearings, most with poor compression is from dusting, not a half million miles. Throw some go fast goodies at it and have fun. IF you blow it then rebuild it.

Diesel Rod