DC Power 185 EOM overkill?
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 904
Likes: 1
Well the alternator finally came in. It was backordered for a couple weeks. I did talk to DC Power and like you would imagine, the alternator is only kicking out full voltage when the system needs it. I actually haven't seen 14.8v since I installed it, probably only 14.5 once in a while. Unit is very nice and install was a breeze with the necessary adapter. The only negative I have is that they don't return calls if you leave a message. Just keep calling back until you get a person. All in all I am quite pleased, especially considering the NAPA gold high output stock was $260 or so. This didn't cost much more for a far better unit. 
to be something less satisfying, after reading some of the posts.
something to consider is this.... when the engine is running, your
system voltage is roughly 14.5 or so. OEM for me was 13.2
the ficm is sensitive to voltage, as it is an amplifier. to produce
a regulated output to the injectors, the lower the voltage, the
more current the ficm has to pull to make up for it.
there is no free lunch.
so, driving around, your ficm doesn't need as much current to
produce the desired output. less current flow is less heat.
and your batteries will be fully charged.
and when the glow plugs are on, the alternator can supply that
load instead of pulling the batteries down further. so now,
the only thing your batteries have to do, is crank the engine.
Freshman User
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
From: South Carolina
I'll leave the technical stuff for the experts but after roughly a year with a DCPower 185 installed in my stock truck (crew cab long bed dually), I've had 0 problems. During the first month, I saw higher voltages on the Scan Gauge which I attributed to the alternator getting the batteries back in shape. Now I generally see 13.6-14.0v
Overall, the truck starts quicker, FICM voltage never dips below 48v and the battery voltage doesn't go into the 10v range during start up like they used to.
FWIW, YMMV.
Overall, the truck starts quicker, FICM voltage never dips below 48v and the battery voltage doesn't go into the 10v range during start up like they used to.
FWIW, YMMV.
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,629
Likes: 2
From: West Bloomfield, MI
Interesting read.
I stumbled upon a NIB Mean Green 220A alternator for $250. I bought an OEM alternator last summer since I couldn't afford a good upgrade. I don't have extra accessories, but I do tow a TT every year to various locations. Some trips are over 1200 miles each way. Would I benefit from this alternator?
I stumbled upon a NIB Mean Green 220A alternator for $250. I bought an OEM alternator last summer since I couldn't afford a good upgrade. I don't have extra accessories, but I do tow a TT every year to various locations. Some trips are over 1200 miles each way. Would I benefit from this alternator?
Certified Thread Hijacker
Joined: Aug 2001
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I'm not sure how well they have done lately, but Mean Green was the "in thing" in the 90s for high output alternators in stock cases.
$250 isn't too bad for 220 amps. What kind if warranty does it have?
Josh
$250 isn't too bad for 220 amps. What kind if warranty does it have?
Josh
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 9,399
Likes: 188
From: Norco,CA
Personally, unless you are near them I'd go with DC power. Even the FICM guy ED recommends them, and they have a good rep.
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Whether it's Mean Green, DC Power or another e-commerce business like Amazon, you're still dealing with phone calls, emails and shipping to/from in regards to warranty.
Next step after the chain store would be a local rebuilder only because the shipping/email hassle is eliminated.
Doing a quick Google search I see the Jeep crowd seem to really like Mean Green alternators if that means anything to anyone.
$250 is a good deal, I see the 200 amp usually runs for $369?
Josh
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Joined: Jun 2006
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I'll leave the technical stuff for the experts but after roughly a year with a DCPower 185 installed in my stock truck (crew cab long bed dually), I've had 0 problems. During the first month, I saw higher voltages on the Scan Gauge which I attributed to the alternator getting the batteries back in shape. Now I generally see 13.6-14.0v
Overall, the truck starts quicker, FICM voltage never dips below 48v and the battery voltage doesn't go into the 10v range during start up like they used to.
FWIW, YMMV.
Overall, the truck starts quicker, FICM voltage never dips below 48v and the battery voltage doesn't go into the 10v range during start up like they used to.
FWIW, YMMV.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2006
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I saw other posts where people with the dual alternator setup have unplugged the 2nd Alternator and only used the 1 DCPower 200Amp Alt. You may want to search the forums to see what they did.
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Posting Guru
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Posting Guru
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I guess those aren't the right wiring diagrams for the 6.0? I found this in a search of how to convert dual alternators to single alternator...
Found this on another site:
I don't have a dual alt 7.3L here to check, but if the wiring setup is similar to the 6.0 the conversion from "dual" to "single" doesn't require all of that work described in that document. I had to spend some time with my 6.0L wiring diagram book to figure it out, but the final solution took all of about 5 minutes.
When you remove the second alternator and then follow it's wiring up to the inner fender on the passenger side, you'll reach an 8-pin plug right behind the battery. If you unwrap the tape on the alternator side of this connector, you'll find 2 "loopbacks". One loops the main alt "activate" wire from the instrument cluster to the PCM (so the PCM can "randomly" activate either ALT1 or ALT2) and the other loops the ALT1 singnal coming back from the PCM to ALT1. The only other wire in that connector is the activate wire for ALT2 coming from the PCM.
If you pull the center red locking tab out of the male side of the connector and push out all of the pins, you can reconfigure it to do what is described in the document (connect the instrument cluster alt activate wire to ALT1). A quick look at the female (truck side) of the 8 pin connector and you'll see that the GN/RD wire to ALT1 is in spots 1 and 2. Take the GN/RD loopback wire you removed earlier, install it in the matching 1 and 2 slots, reinstall the red locking tab and plug your new loopback in. Fire up the truck and verify 12V at the GN/RD wire on the top of the ALT1 and 13.5+V and you'll know that it's working.
Anyway, long post for a quick fix but I figure someone else will want to do this someday and I never found a more accurate document anywhere describing it.
Found this on another site:
I don't have a dual alt 7.3L here to check, but if the wiring setup is similar to the 6.0 the conversion from "dual" to "single" doesn't require all of that work described in that document. I had to spend some time with my 6.0L wiring diagram book to figure it out, but the final solution took all of about 5 minutes.
When you remove the second alternator and then follow it's wiring up to the inner fender on the passenger side, you'll reach an 8-pin plug right behind the battery. If you unwrap the tape on the alternator side of this connector, you'll find 2 "loopbacks". One loops the main alt "activate" wire from the instrument cluster to the PCM (so the PCM can "randomly" activate either ALT1 or ALT2) and the other loops the ALT1 singnal coming back from the PCM to ALT1. The only other wire in that connector is the activate wire for ALT2 coming from the PCM.
If you pull the center red locking tab out of the male side of the connector and push out all of the pins, you can reconfigure it to do what is described in the document (connect the instrument cluster alt activate wire to ALT1). A quick look at the female (truck side) of the 8 pin connector and you'll see that the GN/RD wire to ALT1 is in spots 1 and 2. Take the GN/RD loopback wire you removed earlier, install it in the matching 1 and 2 slots, reinstall the red locking tab and plug your new loopback in. Fire up the truck and verify 12V at the GN/RD wire on the top of the ALT1 and 13.5+V and you'll know that it's working.
Anyway, long post for a quick fix but I figure someone else will want to do this someday and I never found a more accurate document anywhere describing it.