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all i've got is my experience, and what i've observed with meters.
and what i've found on the net..... this is the charge profile for
oddesy batteries, an AGM battery. this is how the oddesy chargers
do the deal. i have a 50 amp single bank one, and i've measured
it during it's charge cycle, and it does what the graph says.
it's a $300 charger. it works.
now, with the brand new van, and oem alternator, the oem batteries
lasted 18 months. i replaced them with a pair of oddesy batteries,
and those lasted 18 months with the oem alternator, and the
thing always cranked over weakly. sometimes i'd put a charger on it,
just to top off the batteries.
here's my observation on batteries, both industrial battery room
lead acid batteries, ganged in series for 120 volt dc, each battery
weighing 275 lbs, and having two volts, and auto batteries.
you are transferring energy from one place to another. there has
to be a delta to cause current flow. if you charge a battery with
a 12.5 volt source, it will never reach 12.5 volts static charge.
and when i was charging my batteries at 13.2 volts with oem alternators, the resting voltage never exceeded 11.6 volts on the batteries.
my batteries, measured right now with a fluke DMM are 12.55.
when i start up the van, the system voltage goes up after about
15 seconds to 14.6~14.8.
check how many people on this forum are running DC power
alternators.
now, how many are posting how their batteries are toasted?
On the same thought my trickle charger will put out 13.05 volts max and when I disconnect it from my agm battery, 24 hours later the battery is still reading 12.82 volts. Comparing the voltage/current to a water pipe so that some of the laymen will understand. The voltage is the water pipe pressure and the current is the gallons per minute. your graph is correct in the fact that at some point the deltas have to come down to a maintaining, happy medium, level. The current is the amount of charge the battery will accept and the voltage directly affects the rate of the charge. The state of the battery, internal resistance and acid dilution/age, can directly affect those deltas. I agree that a healthy battery and good alternator can work in the 14+ voltage range but that is also dependant on the system load. I just hate when people, not you, just make blanket statements that the system should always be at 14+ volts or the alternator is defective or under sized.
AGM batteries are a different animal than common lead acid, they require higher charge voltage. Look at the graph and the Odyssey site for proof, they have approved chargers also.
AGM batteries are a different animal than common lead acid, they require higher charge voltage. Look at the graph and the Odyssey site for proof, they have approved chargers also.
Agreed but I've had the same experience with the wet lead acid batterys. The big diff. is the wet batterys didn't keep the float charge as long. All other stats were app. the same. We can debate this till the cows come home. The basics are solid it's your truck and your batterys. I haven't had a problem with my still original alt. that never puts out more than 13.9 volts. Sometimes as low as 12.7.
Agreed but I've had the same experience with the wet lead acid batterys. The big diff. is the wet batterys didn't keep the float charge as long. All other stats were app. the same. We can debate this till the cows come home. The basics are solid it's your truck and your batterys. I haven't had a problem with my still original alt. that never puts out more than 13.9 volts. Sometimes as low as 12.7.
So which alt do you have, or came on your truck?
It is interesting comparing sophisticated 4 stage, etc. static chargers -- temperature compensated and all that, with the basic alternator that runs in your basic vehicle.... Temperature Compensation? Float Charge? Bulk Charge? I really doubt our alternators are "thinking" about how best to charge the battery...
It is interesting comparing sophisticated 4 stage, etc. static chargers -- temperature compensated and all that, with the basic alternator that runs in your basic vehicle.... Temperature Compensation? Float Charge? Bulk Charge? I really doubt our alternators are "thinking" about how best to charge the battery...
I'm the original owner. I'd have to dig back 8 years but I'd bet that I have the 110 unit.
AGM batteries are a different animal than common lead acid, they require higher charge voltage. Look at the graph and the Odyssey site for proof, they have approved chargers also.
Notice the posted graph, the charging drops under 14 volts after about 4 hours. DC alternators are new on the market, less than 3 years? Problems may take longer to develop, and the best batteries are better than previous generations.
Time will tell if you should continuously charge your batteries at 14.7 volts, without problems.
That graph is what I was trying to say. If the regulator tappers the voltage down near the end of charging that is great. If it keeps going at 14.8v then it might not be great for long periods of time. I'll try to call DC tomorrow and see what the alternators do.
That graph is what I was trying to say. If the regulator tappers the voltage down near the end of charging that is great. If it keeps going at 14.8v then it might not be great for long periods of time. I'll try to call DC tomorrow and see what the alternators do.
Temperature compensation would be very interesting to hear about...
Is everyone here thinking a constant 14.2-14.7 volts is a bad thing? That's what an automobile electrical system is designed for.
Want long term? How about countless OTR trucks that run 24/7?
Also keep in mind what is shown at the OBD port is going to be .2-.5 volts LESS than what the battery sees.
Josh
What got my attention was that it was mentioned in an earlier post that 13.5 volts would not charge a lead acid battery to more than 25%, that is wrong.
Over 14.5 will boil the electrolyte, 14.2 is fine.
What you have to be aware of is what kind of battery you have. The above only applies to standard lead acid batteries. Glass mat, gel, or Odyssey are different and require different charge rates. This could be why the stock alternator is getting a bad rap, 13.5v will not charge a glass mat battery.
Well the alternator finally came in. It was backordered for a couple weeks. I did talk to DC Power and like you would imagine, the alternator is only kicking out full voltage when the system needs it. I actually haven't seen 14.8v since I installed it, probably only 14.5 once in a while. Unit is very nice and install was a breeze with the necessary adapter. The only negative I have is that they don't return calls if you leave a message. Just keep calling back until you get a person. All in all I am quite pleased, especially considering the NAPA gold high output stock was $260 or so. This didn't cost much more for a far better unit.
Now on to bigger and more expensive things, bring it in for the tranny rebuild tomorrow.
My monitored voltage at the OBD-II port is usually .5 volt less than what's at the battery. With the new overdrive pulley and 140 amp 6G large case alternator I'm seeing consistent 14.0-14.5 now. System looked to be putting out 12.0 with glow plugs running whereas it was dipping down to 10 before.