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First diesel, and I'm hoping I don't regret buying this 06 FX4 F250 diesel. First plan is to put an off road exhaust (cat and muffler delete) on it, then EGR delete, and eventually studded heads. What is the prominent tuner for these? Just traded in a Roush Mustang and I'm very familiar with the SCT devices, not sure if they are used on these commonly. First question, will the open exhaust throw any CEL's without a tuner? Or is a tuner req'd with the open exhaust?
Thanks for the help, can't wait to get settled in here.
I have a 06 6.0 cat and muffler delete straight pipe (doesn't throw a cel) and a sct live wire programmer and a airraid cold air intake 340000 miles and running strong.
It's generally not a good idea to run anything but the stock tune without some type of headstud upgrade. The 6.0 is notorious for blowing the headgasket however a good portion are from using a tune without the supporting mods to be able to do so.
You can try bulletproofdiesel.com for some cooling options. And most use ARP head studs
Thanks for all the input, I've been doing quite a bit or reading. Thinking about going with the kit from Extremedieselperformance.com that has their EGR delete, Black Onyx head gaskets, ARP head studs, Ford exhaust and intake gasket with a Ford factory oil cooler and screen. Also with MBRP 4" turbo back off road exhaust.
Probably going to be a while before I get time to do the head gaskets, or have them done (depending on price), will a Gearhead canned tune be safe with that exhaust? Not sure how **** these are about mods, the S/C'd Mustang I just got rid of was very ****. Last thing I want to do is lean out the a/f and have to replace the motor!
Thanks for all the input, I've been doing quite a bit or reading. Thinking about going with the kit from Extremedieselperformance.com that has their EGR delete, Black Onyx head gaskets, ARP head studs, Ford exhaust and intake gasket with a Ford factory oil cooler and screen. Also with MBRP 4" turbo back off road exhaust.
Probably going to be a while before I get time to do the head gaskets, or have them done (depending on price), will a Gearhead canned tune be safe with that exhaust? Not sure how **** these are about mods, the S/C'd Mustang I just got rid of was very ****. Last thing I want to do is lean out the a/f and have to replace the motor!
That looks like a good setup you want, but most here and I personally advise not to use Black Onyx head gaskets, as there have been reports of failure on those gaskets with a stud installation.
Thanks, guess I'll order the setup with the OEM HG's. Now, do I want to mess with the studs or have them done, lol! Gonna get some quotes on that this week. Never worked or owned a diesel before and not sure what all is involved. All of my work has been on gas drivetrains, I'm sure they're much easier to work on!
Do not!!! use black onyx head gaskets unless you want to do it again. Also, have the heads checked by a machine shop to make sure they are flat/not cracked
There are Black Onyx gaskets made by VR, and there are a brand new version of them. The new version seems to be working great since VR redesigned them to match OEM gaskets and added some thickness. Still, I'd spend the $$$ and get only OEM. You'll save a few $$$ with the BO version, but you'll likely be back in there later replaceing them.
As far as tunes, I loved my Gearheads SRL (for non-studded trucks). Wicked powerful and amazing driveability compared to the stock tune. Any SCT product from the Xcal II will work. I personally like the XCal II. It's cheap and works. No point in spending a ton of $$$ for a X3 or SF3 IMO when you custom tune.
Avoid a shift on the fly tuner. They kill transmissions and aren't truly programmers. They intercept signals and re-interpret them for the PCM.
Only do a SCT device IMO
Do the blue spring upgrade. It's needed for tuning, and it will help with driveability as well. Cheap upgrade as well. It can be purchased as a complete kit with new seals, or just the spring itself
Here is the MBRP 3.5" downpipe and the test pipe. You can see the flow restrictions of stock vs. OEM
I would do a coolant flush and throw a filter on there. Cheap insurance to save the oil cooler
Lastly, you need gauges. I recommend at a bare minimum you pick up a Scangauge II. Very nifty device that monitors anything the PCM can see. Also reads DTC's and does some MPG stuff. Not a bad deal for about $150. A Fuel Pressure and EGT gauge are pretty much a must when running tuned. Similar to running a A/F monitor on your old tuned Roush.
here is my old setup. I used Glowshift gauges. They aren't the most expensive compared to other brands, but they worked very nicely for me. And you can change their colors. The green matches the dash almost perfectly
if this made your decisions any harder, glad to help
Too much info for my slow brain, lol!!!!
OK, first up. I've seen a lot about the coolant filters, why are they needed on this truck? What in the system is so bad that it requires a filter when no others do? As far as gauges, I was thinking about running dual Aeroforce Interceptors. Ran one in my mustang and it was great. Any +'s or -'s compared to the one you're talking about?
What is this blue spring upgrade you mention???
Ordered the 4" turbo back straight pipe, the 5" seemed overkill for what I'm doing.
Planning on coolant, oil, filter, and gear oil swaps. Other than Caterpillar coolant, any other brands I should look for in engine oil, filter, or gear oil?
Thanks again for all the info, definitely learning a lot from all ya'll!
Oh, I'm getting a whistling, almost like a tea kettle whistle, coming from the coolant degas bottle. There is a lot pressure building up in there very fast and it's venting it. Tried topping the system, still there. Next step is to try a new cap for the reservoir. Does that sound like a bad head gasket? Not sure why it would be building up that much pressure that quickly.
Just left a shop my buddy works at, looks like a blown head gasket. Another code for pressure unbalance on cylinder 2, guessing that's where the gasket is shot. Guess all mods are on hold till I get that figured out. He was saying around $3200-3500 for labor. I'm hoping I can get the Ford dealership I bought it from to at least pony up a little bit for it. Otherwise, it's gonna hurt.