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2003 7.3L P1316 Code Nothing Works

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Old Jun 29, 2013 | 06:48 PM
  #16  
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Not sure if I'm reading your post correctly, but it seems that maybe you tested the wire harness side of the 9 pin connector, the guys were needing you to perform the ohm test on the 9 pins on the valve cover side of the connection. This would determine if the connector under the valve cover is properly connected. If I am wrong, disregard.
 
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Old Jun 29, 2013 | 06:54 PM
  #17  
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You are not wrong. I did that test and I tried to do the valve cover side too but couldn't get the probes to stay on the pins. I'll try again tomorrow. Shouldn't I have gotten a reading from the harness side as well? Just wondering.
 
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Old Jun 29, 2013 | 07:14 PM
  #18  
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Testing the harness side would only test the wiring to 42 pin connector, so I think you would not get any readings, as you have already discovered. To assist in testing pins at valve cover, if you had a set of alligator clip jumpers (2 alligator clips connected by a wire) you could put one side on pins and one side on test leads of meter, even if you only did it on the center pin that would free up one hand to help get the other test lead onto the other pins. Hope that makes sense, its always easier to think what you want to say, then it comes out goofy in typing.
 
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Old Jun 29, 2013 | 07:18 PM
  #19  
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Understand it perfectly. You did a great job explaining. I'll go get a set of clips tonight and try it again tomorrow.
 
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Old Jun 29, 2013 | 07:20 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Sharonl12
Ok I am desperate now and broke. My truck started running rough and lost all power with no warning. SEL came on code P1316. Code P0470. Took it to a mechanic as I am not really good with a wrench. He replaced the passenger side Valve cover gasket with a new one with all new wires and connectors. Didn't fix it. He then installed a manufactured IDM, Didn't fix it. He then did the Drivers side Valve cover gasket with the same new wires and connectors. Still not fixed.
It is acting a little different. Now if you shut it off let it sit just a few minutes restart it sounds awesome, take off runs good for about 2 - 3 mins. Then starts running rough and looses power. Took it to Auto Zone got the exact same codes P1316 and P0470. Any ideas?
does the truck seem like its running out of fuel after a few minutes?

the parts in your comments i under lined in bold don't really have anything to do with the codes your getting but, it does kind of sound like a fuel restriction problem. these trucks have been known to have problems in the fuel tank with the pick up foot deteriorating and then pieces of it clog the line. you could remove the fuel line where it enters the back side of the fuel pump, take the cap off the fuel tank, and blow compressed air back through the line you disconnected towards the fuel tank in an attempt to clear any blockage you may have. the fuel pump is on the frame just under the drivers seat area. hope this helps
 
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Old Jun 29, 2013 | 07:24 PM
  #21  
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Phew...forehead wipe...
 
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Old Jun 29, 2013 | 07:36 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by tappit01
...it does kind of sound like a fuel restriction problem.
I agree, but having no solenoid readings on the passenger side will need to be put to bed. Once the continuity incongruities are solved without ambiguity, then we can learn what symptoms are left.

Here's where we are: If you can't get continuity to the solenoids, you'll need to remove the passenger-side valve cover... which should be easier since it was recently loosened for you.
 
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Old Jun 29, 2013 | 07:48 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Tugly
I agree, but having no solenoid readings on the passenger side will need to be put to bed. Once the continuity incongruities are solved without ambiguity, then we can learn what symptoms are left.

Here's where we are: If you can't get continuity to the solenoids, you'll need to remove the passenger-side valve cover... which should be easier since it was recently loosened for you.
thats very true, my other thought was what kind of new v/c gaskets was used. oem or ?
 
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Old Jun 29, 2013 | 08:02 PM
  #24  
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From: Ellensburg, Wa
Originally Posted by Tugly

Here's where we are: If you can't get continuity to the solenoids, you'll need to remove the passenger-side valve cover... which should be easier since it was recently loosened for you.
I had the distinct notion we'd be headed toward pulling the VC , just didn't want to be the one to say it...call me chicken, I'm good with that!
 
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Old Jun 29, 2013 | 08:46 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by tappit01
thats very true, my other thought was what kind of new v/c gaskets was used. oem or ?
I purchased them at Auto Zone they have a lifetime warranty and came with the Wires and the 9 pin connector.
 
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Old Jun 30, 2013 | 02:35 PM
  #26  
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OK Guys finally got the readings on the 9 Pin on the valve cover.
Going from the front to the rear
#1 nothing
#2 nothing
#3 3.5
#4 2.9
#5 .6
#6 3.6
#7 3.6
#8 nothing
#9 nothing
 
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Old Jun 30, 2013 | 05:09 PM
  #27  
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Am I guessing right here, does that mean that I have 2 injectors and glow plugs not plugged in?
 
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Old Jun 30, 2013 | 05:16 PM
  #28  
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No, the ohm readings are all of your injectors on that bank. I think that the glow plugs should ohm around .8 the middle connector is the common for all injectors. Are you testing from center pin to 3,4,6 and 7. Those readings should be within .5 of one another and under 5 ohms. I feel your frustration. I've been broke down for 3 weeks and still have not figured out what is wrong.
 
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Old Jun 30, 2013 | 05:20 PM
  #29  
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WOW Hope you close to your house. I did place the Black lead on the center pin and test the other 8 pins with the red wire. I had the multi meter set on Ohms 200. was not sure where to set it at as there are 5 ohm choices.
 
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Old Jun 30, 2013 | 05:23 PM
  #30  
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Yep at home. Your settings are correct. Good luck.
 
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