need rear brake help (again!)
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From: Atlanta
need rear brake help (again!)
Taking my rear brake apart to get to the wheel cylinder. What do I do next. I feel like the 8 small bolts were holding on a cover plate but I can not for the life of me remove it.
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The manual says to use a mallet to strike the cover in the center. Many little cone-shaped keepers can then "pop" out. Don't lose them. Resist any temptation to pry it off. That is a sealing surface and axle lube can/will leak if you gouge the mating surfaces.
My buddy used to strike at the rim of the disk to push out the keepers. This can deform the countersunk holes and is also likely to cause damage.
My buddy used to strike at the rim of the disk to push out the keepers. This can deform the countersunk holes and is also likely to cause damage.
Last edited by The Horvaths; Jun 24, 2013 at 06:12 PM. Reason: Additional thoughts.
Believe Nothing
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From: W. Central FL.
That cover plate is the axle, that receives power from the center differential and transmits it to the hub where it turns the wheel. If you have three tapered screws around the face of the drum, into the hub, remove these screws and the drum may come off, giving access to the brakes. I think I see where one of the screws is out. If you don't have the screws in the drum, you'll have to pull the axle, remove the large nuts and pull the drum and bearings. A solid blow to the face of the axle will usually loosen the tapered wedges. If not, a blunt chisel will work against the side of the tapered wedges.
Believe Nothing
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: W. Central FL.
You should get a bit of oil when the axle is removed. The oil from the differential is what lubricates the wheel bearings in your full floating rear end. I would think it might be a good idea to drain the oil to see what shape it is in. If clean and obviously fresh, you can always put it back in. Buy or rent the wrench for those two big old nuts. If you have the three screw holes, someone may have left them out at one time and the drum may be separate from the hub. I can not tell from the picture and I am not sure what rear end you have.
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It is a dana 60 as far as I can tell. There is only one hole in the hub. You can see it in the upper left of the photo. There are no more holes.
I was just asking about the diff to avoid fluid all over my driveway.
I was just asking about the diff to avoid fluid all over my driveway.
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OK I have made a little progress trying to drive the keepers counter clockwise. I think I am buggering up the keeper though. I hope these are easily replaceable.
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From: Burbank, WA
90 weight is not typically transparent, so it may not be a problem. Thick and brown like really stinky maple syrup is fine. Black and sludgy not so much. Don't save or put old oil back in. Just top it off with fresh or change it out completely to be sure its clean and good to go.
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From: SoCal - LA Area
If you just want to change just the wheel cylinder, pull the drum off. No need to mess with the axle. Drum should pull right out over the hub (unless it's rusted on
*EDIT - Just re-read; and yes several year Dana 60 rear ends did have the drums attached to the hub/axle. If that's the case then your on the right track!
*EDIT - Just re-read; and yes several year Dana 60 rear ends did have the drums attached to the hub/axle. If that's the case then your on the right track!
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Milky color suggests water (due to condensation caused by the mandatory vent) and I suggest that you may do well to deliberately change the lube. This is possibly a sign that the vehicle hasn't made many long trips lately. Long trips cause sufficient heat to drive off traces of water.
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From: Atlanta
I got the axle out and the large nut off. Now I need to get the drum off. It turnd and wiggles but won't pull off. There don't seem to be any brake adjustment provisions and I've loosened the fluid nipple. What next?
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