Looking to replace the rear shoes for the first time. I'm used to having a single rear drum just slide off the studs. Do I have to take off the cap secured by the bolts, or should that entire assembly slide off?

 

I believe some Kroil or PB Blaster and a sledge hammer would help.
But, someone else that knows more about those brakes will chime in soon enough.

 

As mentioned it should come off. If not you can remove the 8 axle bolts, pull the axle out, and remove the nut that hold the hub on. On my 86 F250 it was a left hand thread on the driver's side.

 

Yes, that drum should come off. You may have to go around and loosen the shoes a little bit if they are out tight against the drum. Then spray the center section down like was mentioned, and get a big hammer like was mentioned. Hit on it in the area where that plate is on there with the rivets. Hit all the way around, but you can miss the plate so you won't break it off.

 

Almost certainly you'll need to back off the adjuster to draw the shoes in towards the axle shaft. Unless they are oil soaked there's a high chance you have a ridge on the outside edge of the drum.
But also the drum may be rusted to the hub.

If you end up replacing your drums don't use Wagner if you're in a hurry. I tried 4 new drums this spring when I redid my whole brake system and all 4 were not round. Ended up there as enough meat left I could have my old ones turned.
I've been meaning to put together a list of all the parts I used.

 

On my 84 I have to pull the axle to remove the drum, the hub and drum are a unit.

Mine is a Dana 70, I am in the middle of rebuilding the brake system on it now.

 

That cap is the end of the axle, unbolt and pull the axle shaft, pretty simple. I have seen some that the drum and hub are separate, but, like I said earlier, mine are a single unit so the axle has to be pulled to pull the drum, I can't tell from your picture if that is the same case as yours.

Typical full floating rear end, good strong stuff.

 

Glr post 3 is right. use a drift to start removal of the axle tube nut. There is a lock ring with tabs on it that locks in that nut so bend back that tab. You'll find the same style of nut behind the lock ring but it's an east out. BE carful as you have a bearing behind that nut thats coming out to. Have a tray under the end of the axle as you should have 4-6 ozs of gear oil come out. if no fluid comes out you may need gear oil, if that bearing is dry toss it and inspect the bearing race. That bearing needs to stay wet or it will burn out like a grease less front wheel bearing. Turn the brake adjuster from the bottom up to back off the shoes.When the hub comes off you will see your brakes and backing plate and about 12" of threaded axle tube. Make sure you have a can of brake cleaner handy, you'll need it. Might be a good time to replace or rebuild your wheel cylinders depending on their age.

 

What holds the drum to the hub on that unit above? On the Dana's yes you have to pull the axle because the hub is in front of the drum. On the one above, I see the hub is behind the drum.

If you do not have a oil fill plug on the rear cover, it should be a Ford Sterling axle and the drum should come off.

 

My bad big time, I just came in from taking off my drums on my 89 f350 dually. I'm doing a hub to hub brake and wheel cylinder replacement and paint on my axle. Took off tires, started to tap the rust off my drum and as I'm rotating my axle the drum comes off. Shocks me a bit, because I'm thinking I have a dana like my 78 which I opened up on sunday to show it's new owner the condition of the drums. I distinctly remember the po telling me he didn't mess with the rear brakes because he wasn't going through the routine of removing axles. I left out his swear words to save the moderaters from editing me. So now it appears that I have a sterling. The parts guy didn't ask if for my axle type so I'm assuming this is the only option for this year.
Sorry for the misinformation and I hope I didn't start any arguments. Whats scarry about my axle is that most of my axle bolts were backed out an 1/8" to a 1/4". 3 loosely tight bolts on drivers side and 2 on passenger side.
Just saw your question Franklin and I'll take a look when I go back out to clean everything. My 90 cube van had that nightmare ABS rear so I let a shop take care of it. I had to big a job description at the time to do anything more than the wet service. Hope I didn't wreck your day Queen of spades, but at least your not messing with a 1 piece hub and drum.

 

Is this part still accurate? I don't have a drain bolt on the back side of the differential cover. It's been raining a bunch in ATL so I haven't been able to work on it. Looks like it will clear out this weekend. I have new wheel cylinders, spring kit, and shoes.

 

I have an 86 w/a sterling axle and my drums come off w/o removing the axle. The only reason to remove the hub and axle is if you have a leaking seal. You deffinately need to back off the brakes using a screwdriver or brake sploon. Access is at the 6 o'clock position on the backing plate. I did my rear brakes about a month ago, and had to back the brakes off a lot, looking at your pic it looks like the hub and drum are two diff pieces.

Good luck

Steve

 

Yep, that is correct. Your fill plug will be on the front driver's side casting. If it's there and not on the rear cover, you have a Ford/Sterling 10.25. I have never worked on ALL versions of this axle, but the ones I have worked on, the drum comes off by itself.

 

If you have an O'reilly's near you they turn drums. At least the Douglasville one does.
Not many shops seem to have brake lathes anymore.

 

My mind played tricks on me. Could have sworn I didn't have a drain bolt on the back cover. The pic I posted up a while back was from a 80's F350 just not mine. It was wrong.

Got home tonight to take some pics and here is what I have:














So... axle has to come out now right?