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My passenger side window works fine from the passenger side switch but does not work at all from the drivers side switch. I replaced the switch and the issue is the same. Is there a likely failure point that I should investigate or is it time to start tracing and testing the wires?
Believe it or not, it's probably the passenger side switch, the wires run through it from the driver's side. The other possibility is the actual harness on each door, it flexes everytime the doors are opened and closed.
Nothing to do with solving your issue, but I like to ascertain the wire in the fuse-block that feeds the power windows, dis-connect it from key-ON power, and run a BIG always HOT wire to feed the breaker.
Thus, one can work the windows when the keys are a million miles away from the truck.
Myself, I very much prefer crank windows, but this minor modification makes power-windows a lot easier to live with; it also removes their massive amperage draw from the key-switch.
My personal truck, of course, is not plagued with power-windows; good old crank-ups work the windows in my truck.
LongRider I don't blame you. That is one of the reasons I upgraded my wiring system to the 1992-96/7 design, The ignition switch has 5 battery inputs, 4 of them fed by 2 50 amp maxi fuses, the other by a 20 amp maxi fuse. The heavy consumers are dedicated portions of the switch.